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Old 02-01-2008, 12:34 PM
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Default 80 Series Alternator Tech...

Ok...the windshield squirter thread didn't generate much interest ...

So, how about this? Have any of you swapped out your stock OEM alternators for higher output ones?

When I'm running around at night with the lights on, radio on, heater/defrost going full bore, etc. and I come to a stop (idle), I notice a considerable reduction in both the fan speed/output and headlight brightness.

I'm thinking before I start adding more schtuff to my LX (aux lights, aux fuse block with other accessories, etc.) that it might be wise to upgrade to a higher output alternator. I blew my Cruiser budget in short order last year so my future mods need to be planned better

This one in particular caught my interest:

OEM bolt on alternator 170 amp
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Old 02-01-2008, 01:00 PM
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I posted up there.
Looks to be worthwhile. You need to know the RPM for peak amperage. If it is delta or y-wound will make a difference, though I cannot remember which is which.
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Old 02-01-2008, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
I posted up there.
Looks to be worthwhile. You need to know the RPM for peak amperage. If it is delta or y-wound will make a difference, though I cannot remember which is which.
You want delta configured windings for higher current at lower RPM and wye configuration for higher voltage at lower RPM. Nippon Denso uses a wye configuration for stock Toyota alternators AFAIK. I've always assumed this was so they charge better at idle. You need high enough potential regardless of the current to charge. A lead acid battery will charge faster and be less damaged (i.e. less sulfation) at 2.4V per cell than it will at 2.3V per cell, for example. So for the intended purpose of a stock truck it makes more sense to have it charge better in traffic and that's probably why they are configured like that. When you mod your truck, a delta can make more sense as current demands go up. But realize that even if it generates more current at low RPM, it may not have enough potential to really effectively charge the battery anyway. No solution is always ideal.
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Old 02-01-2008, 04:10 PM
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I got one of the custom alt brackets from Photoman on MUD. Discussion in thread below. However I have not installed it with the Tundra Alt yet. Nor have I heard any results from anyone else who has. Anyway OEM Tundra alt is listed at 100-130 amp I believe depending on year

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...r-upgrade.html
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Old 02-01-2008, 04:33 PM
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I got the bracket from Photoman, too. It's a piece of art.

There's a 150A Sequoia alternator that will supposedly work with it. I've tried contact a few junkyards via carparts.com with no success yet. Next week, I'll check prices from CDan for a Toyota reman unit.
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Old 02-01-2008, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
When I'm running around at night with the lights on, radio on, heater/defrost going full bore, etc. and I come to a stop (idle), I notice a considerable reduction in both the fan speed/output and headlight brightness.

I got lots of toys running and mine doesn't dim. Maybe you should spend that money on Dual batteries instead

You might check to make sure you have a good ground.
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Old 02-01-2008, 05:47 PM
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Mine in stock form sees its headlights dim when idling at a stoplight. I don't have dual batteries but my main couldn't get much bigger. maybe I've got a bad ground too.
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Old 02-01-2008, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbet View Post
Mine in stock form see its headlights dim when idling at a stoplight. I don't have dual batteries but mine main couldn't get much bigger. maybe I've got a bad ground too.
Sweet BT 31! I plan on putting one just like it in my 2nd spot....I will test it to see how long the fridge will run without recharging!
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer View Post
I got lots of toys running and mine doesn't dim. Maybe you should spend that money on Dual batteries instead

You might check to make sure you have a good ground.

Hmmm...I'll look into that. I only notice the dimming when the heater/defrost is going full bore. The HVAC output drop is the really noticeable thing.
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'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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Old 02-02-2008, 06:39 AM
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One thing about rewound alternators is that they usually do not have as long of life as stock. The rest of the componetry was not designed to handle the extra amps. The brushes are not typically upgraded, nor is the voltage regulator or the diode trio(turns the ac into dc). Personally I would be more inclined to get one of the tundra alternators that are design for more amps then get a rewound alt. But if you accept that it will have shorter life, then have fun with the higher output.
Nice thing about the newer designs is the brushes can be change out rather easy and in the field with out any soldering(which is a big plus). You may want to find out where the product was rewound and see what the longivity of the product is. If there were rewound in china or mexico, it may be a iffy product. Just my thoughts as I do want to have a higher out alt, just want one that gives almost the same life as stock(200k or better).
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