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Old 02-09-2008, 07:29 PM
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Default My New SROR Rear Bumper & 80 Quarter Cutting

So Jim and I have been hanging out with the cutting wheel (little bit 'o sawzall, too) and tube bender again. This is the outcome (it's painted black now ).
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Old 02-09-2008, 07:42 PM
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The cutting of the quarter panel bumperette mounts is a major part of any custom bumper clearance project. To make a long story short, after tossing around a few ideas that went beyond trying to weld sheet metal, we (well, I mostly stood around) ended up bending 3/4" wide 1/8" stick into the shape of the cut quarters, which I did by cutting wheel to the line of the rear hatch and bumper to be. (You know you are getting serious when you start cutting part of your rig and a flashlight falls out from the inside )

With the 3/4" bent to the shape of the opening, to create a thicker wall, Jim welded up a 1/8" floor and then cut/grinded it to the shape of the 3/4" "wall" form. Welded the two together, and then fit them back up into the opening. I drilled 6 screws through the stock sheet metal and new wall on the outside, and 2-3 on the inside (inside metal is thicker). I sealed the gaps with "Fast Steel" epoxy putty (this stuff rocks) and some caulk to fill some bigger bits. It is now sealed better than when I cut it (as determined by cold start exhaust smell in the cabin with a good rigid 1/8" thick floor.

I think the lines turned out perfectly by only cutting to the line of the hatch. Amazing work as always by Jim . Nothing like getting exactly what you want for a fraction of the off the shelf price of a bolt on bit. I was really worried about those quarters, and they are stronger and better sealed than before - perfect

For any sawzall happy custom solution 80 owners, this is a fantastic solution for dealing with resealing and reinforcing the quarters you need to cut.

Because the bumper is so high on the frame now, for a rear tow point Jim welded in a massive Nissan tow hook inside the frame behind the bumper. It's all tucked in and hugely stout. Don't have a pic yet of that bit as I'm currently drilling a bolt through the hook and frame (existing mount hole in the hook) for extra shear strength. Will post up when it's done and I get the dirty girl a good bath for some nice pictures
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Old 02-09-2008, 08:04 PM
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Looks nice and tucked up there. Jim does great work!
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Old 02-10-2008, 09:11 AM
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That is some trickness! I thought I was daring by chopping 4" off my frame, but you took it farther with those quarter panels!

So let's see, you now have a greater departure angle than an 80 with a six-inch lift and typical aftermarket bumper?
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1997 FZJ80, White, Locked, deflared, 5.29'd, 4-5" lift, Fox's, DC shafts F/R, 35" AT's, Metal Tech front bumper w/ winch, custom tube rear bumper, SROR sliders, IPOR skid, Custom exhaust, Snorkel, Eezi-Awn 1600, Mark's Speedo Box.

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Old 02-10-2008, 10:12 AM
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very cool!

I am impressed with anyone who goes at an 80 with a cut off wheel and sawzall!

Jimbo! Keep up the great work bro!

Drew
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Old 02-10-2008, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikeman View Post
That is some trickness! I thought I was daring by chopping 4" off my frame, but you took it farther with those quarter panels!

So let's see, you now have a greater departure angle than an 80 with a six-inch lift and typical aftermarket bumper?
Coming from an XJ project that I ultimately overbuilt (or simply dealt with the reality of the platform, depending on your viewpoint), going custom fabrication and gaining clearance in ways other than lift was my goal from the start with the 80.

My plan was to stick with 35's to not overly stress driveline strength, keep lift moderate (3"-4") for road/family friendliness and not pushing any geometry issues, keep weight as low as possible to avoid the need for forced induction (along with ultimately choosing low gearing for my tire size with 5.29's after trying to live with the stock gearing for 2 years), and then trim up the front and rear clearance with tube bumpers to create approach and departure angles as good a bigger lift with bigger tires and stock mounted bumpers. I think I have accomplished this goal completely with minimal spend with Jim's high quality work a critical part of the outcome.

Now, this leaves me stuck with 80's true achilles heel, which is breakover angle in rock gardens, but that problem is an expensive one to solve, because it requires more lift, but more importantly much bigger tires, and then I can't trust the stock axle strength, and some sort of crawler gearing becomes pretty critical, and I have started the dominoes falling in a way that is tough to balance independent of my wallet (which with four kids is only full of credit card receipts I can hardly pay back as it is ). I'm about $5K in right now on the total project (although my I bought my rig with Slee sliders), and it would take probably $15K to really solve the rock garden problem at the cost of limited usefulness for daily driving.

I think that means this project is about done, except for getting the seats heated and a real stereo system/speakers, but I have this nagging idea about cutting the middle crossmember and rebuilding it to create a cradle for one end of a 35x10.5x16 SSR spare so the tire is flat up against the floor and doesn't drop below the frame rails, but is in the stock position and neither on the roof nor on vision robbing tire carrier.

Nah, that wouldn't be smart
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Old 02-10-2008, 05:02 PM
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Rock garden breakover is solved by liberal application of tube. Which you have done.

DAMHIK...
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Old 02-10-2008, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Rock garden breakover is solved by liberal application of tube. Which you have done.

DAMHIK...
When I read this really fast, I thought it said "lube!"
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Old 02-10-2008, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myredyota View Post
When I read this really fast, I thought it said "lube!"
I did, too, and it scared me
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Old 02-10-2008, 06:42 PM
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Here are pics of the Nissan tow hook. It bumps out slightly between the stock mount holes, so Jim welded a plate to the hook and then plate and hook to the frame. I have drilled through the aft most hole through the new plate and frame and am bolting up a half inch grade 8 bolt for additional shear and side pull strength.

A strap will slide over the hook and exit below the tube. Final bit is to route the exhaust up over the frame and in front of the bumper angled down, and no low hanging bits will remain.
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