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Old 02-13-2008, 07:36 AM
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Default 33's or 35's?

I bought my truck in October with Studded snows, and will leave them on through the winter. When April/May hits, I want to go with BFG A/T's as this is my daily driver. It's an '85 4Runner with some rear fender cutting (the truck initiated this with rust, and I finished it off....), 3inch spring lift and 1.5 inch shackle lift. It'll have 5.29 gearing by then too.

Should I run 33 or 35 inch tires. I know I want 12.5x15, but I am not yet convinced on the height.

Thanks for any advice!!
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Old 02-13-2008, 07:56 AM
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33s will save some wear and tear on the axles, but really your front is strong enough for 35s without issue (especially if you go with Longfields). Depends on what you want to do really. 33s and 5.29s will result in slightly short gearing, which will be an advantage with a 4Runner with the extra weight, but your rpms will be higher than what you are used to. 35s and 5.29s will result in near stock overall gearing.
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Old 02-13-2008, 08:27 AM
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Since the gearing has been explained we'll skip that part. 35's and 5.29 are still a little above stock gearing but they work real well together. Everyday driving is fine and 5th gear is still usable.

I can't remember if you did your brakes already or not, 35's like more braking power. 35's will allow you to roll over obsticles easier when you do wheel the rig and also give you a little smoother ride on the road. They will sway a little more but I never noticed it. With your gearing you will actually loose some MPG with the 33's as you will be turning higher RPM's than the 35's.

Cost is a little bit more on the 35's but not to crazy. If you are looking for AT tires take a look at the Mickey Thompson A/T's, we ran those on my wife's 4Runner for nearly 45K miles and still got $25 a tire when we got new ones. They are great on the road in the snow and what little dirt they saw. Once the tires wear out on her FJ we will be getting a new set of MT for her again.

As far as looks go I prefer the 35" tire but that is a judgement call.
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Going under the knife again !

85 4runner Marlin Ultimate 5" lift 40" MTR's Soft top and doors Towed to Moab by the Big Blue Whale, 07.5 Dodge Mega Cab Laramie 4" lift covered and chiped No more slow lane for me
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Old 02-13-2008, 08:31 AM
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I have upgraded to the larger booster and master cylender from a '95, SS lines and I will be putting the '95 calipers and FJ rotors on once I rebuild the hubs. I also will be putting the larger drums on from the '86 soon. I am a bit of a brake nut, and that was the first thing I wanted to upgrade when I got my truck as the stock setup was tired and really lacking. So, brakes wont be a problem.

So far it sounds like 35's are the way to go. Do you think I will have any clearance issues?
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Old 02-13-2008, 08:32 AM
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Oh, and the cost difference is so minute that it's not a factor here. Also, I'd like to go longfields someday, eventually, but it is not too high on my upgrade list due to the high cost.
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:16 AM
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You may rub on some extreme flex areas but all in all I think you will be OK. As you start running the harder trails you'll be wanting the Longfields, just get them when you blow yours.

Also another way of getting some more clearance is a 1-2" body lift. You'll be able to lift the gas tank and raise your drive train making your break over angle better.
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:27 AM
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With your gearing you will actually loose some MPG with the 33's as you will be turning higher RPM's than the 35's.
I would disagree with this one point. I have noticed with Toy motors (the 3.0, and the 22RE) that running lower RPMs will actually cause you to lose more mileage than letting the motor 'spin'. It is more efficient at higher RPM for one, and for another the lower gearing (to a point) actually improves the motor's leverage over the wheels, allowing it to work less hard. This equals slightly less throttle and slightly improved mileage.

Toting the heavier 35s around will also cost you mileage due to trying to overcome greater rotational mass.

It's not huge, figure 1-2mpg tops.
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
I would disagree with this one point. I have noticed with Toy motors (the 3.0, and the 22RE) that running lower RPMs will actually cause you to lose more mileage than letting the motor 'spin'. It is more efficient at higher RPM for one, and for another the lower gearing (to a point) actually improves the motor's leverage over the wheels, allowing it to work less hard. This equals slightly less throttle and slightly improved mileage.

Toting the heavier 35s around will also cost you mileage due to trying to overcome greater rotational mass.

It's not huge, figure 1-2mpg tops.
Bill is right, at least about the 22R-E (know nothing about the 3VZ). I run 33x9.50 and 5.29, which is pretty short, but I don't mind. I think a 5.17 would have been cool if it was an option, but there aren't any for Toyota. But in any case, I get fine mileage on the highway at 65MPH, around 20MPG give or take. On the Western Slope past Glenwood would be nice to have 4.88, but the trip between Denver and Vail, MUCH less stressful with 5.29 and a 22R-E. I still can't go fast, but I have pedal left going up hill. Still using 3rd and 50MPH, but if I come up to a really slow semi or a Westfalia, I can accelerate and pass. Mind you it's not a 5.0 Mustang pass, but I can get up to 60MPH and make the pass. In 3rd gear that means I'm turning 4,000 RPM in 3rd. On the flats in 5th, indicated 70MPH (about 10% error in the speedometer), my RPM are right at 3,000RPM (so say that's about 63~65MPH for real). It's low. I do use 5th a lot, but it's nice to pass on flats or hit little hills without downshifting.

When talking about mileage and power, the lowest RPMs are not always the most efficient. Yes, the slower the engine turns the less gas it uses, but there is a sweet spot where the engine makes the most power for the amount of gas used. On big V6s and V8s, that point might be 2,500 RPM and above that you burn more gas without an equal increase in power. On the 22R-E the torque peak is 2,900 and the HP peak is about 4,000 RPM. It seems in my experience that the engine makes it's most usable power right around 3,000~4,000 RPM, above that it's just spinning and not pulling much. Below about 2,000 the engine chugs OK, but it's hopelessly struggling on the highway. So about 2,500 to 3,500 it's happy, making good power and it does not suck gas. I try to cruise at 2,500 to 2,900 RPM.

But our truck is not designed to cover mileage in a hurry and so if it takes an extra 30 minutes or an hour more to get to Moab, so what? I take side roads, frontage roads, two-lanes, alternate routes anyway when I can.

My reasoning on staying with 33" tires is mostly the width. I don't want 12.50" wide tires and at least BFG still makes the 33x9.50 or 33x10.50 size. I think a 9.50 or 10.50 makes more sense with a lighter truck anyway. Plus you have less rubbing issues. I still have IFS and the combo of pizza cutters, torsion lift, pinch seam reworking and minimal backspace increase just works. I geared because I'm asking a 22R-E to haul around a XtraCab with the camper and I don't skimp on the amount of beer on board...
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:36 AM
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More great info to consider....

On the 12.5 vs. 9.5 or 10.5, I'm not too worried about rubbing as I'll be going with spacers up front and the '86 axle in back so I'll have a bit more width. I would think a wider footprint for crawling is more desireable? Any feedback on that?
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
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More great info to consider....

On the 12.5 vs. 9.5 or 10.5, I'm not too worried about rubbing as I'll be going with spacers up front and the '86 axle in back so I'll have a bit more width. I would think a wider footprint for crawling is more desireable? Any feedback on that?
Spacers will widen your track, stability is increased. As you lift the truck you need to consider widening the stance to compensate. But a couple of inches of lift with a stock track is not going to be instant roll over. But, sure, you do have to be careful and so if you can go wider without rubbing, that's a good thing.

But less backspace or wheel spacers will increase your rubbing problems, not make them less. You need to keep the tires tucked in under the fender lip with the wheel stuffed. If I run a 12.50" wide tire, I'd have to cut the fender lip or have a lot more lift. You have more options with the solid axle, since the wheel doesn't travel up and down as straight as mine.

How much lift are you intending to run?
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