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  #11  
Old 02-13-2008, 11:25 AM
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Big Friendly Hammer will take care of any rubbing issues. Moving your front axle forward (haha!, IFS guys...) will also help a great deal.
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Wider stance is definitely better. One thing I picked up with the beadlocks, since they were 10" wide wheels this time with the same backspacing, is more width. I can feel it. Way mo betta.
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2008, 12:23 PM
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I've cut about an inch and a half from my rear fenders, and my fronts appear to have lots of room, and I have already flattened the seam welds. I have 4 1/2 total lift, and dont really want to go much higher, so I am looking for a size that will fit now.

Bill, how difficult is it to move the axle foreward? Longer drive shaft, relocate shock hoops(?), lengthen track bar (?), move spring perches (?)... I'm not sure what thqat entails. If I do that, I am guessing it would be a good time to do dual cases as well due to the necessary drive shaft modifications?
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2008, 12:40 PM
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Some good info on the tire size. Just aninteresting fact, I am running 5.29's and 37" tires. My speedo reads within about a mile when compared to the GPS. Now this could be because the speedo was off when stock or ???? Seems like 37's return it to stock more with 5.29's but when doing the math that is not the case.
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Going under the knife again !

85 4runner Marlin Ultimate 5" lift 40" MTR's Soft top and doors Towed to Moab by the Big Blue Whale, 07.5 Dodge Mega Cab Laramie 4" lift covered and chiped No more slow lane for me
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2008, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Moving your front axle forward (haha!, IFS guys...)
We don't gotta go mess about moving axles forward because they don't move backwards to begin with. :-P
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2008, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
We don't gotta go mess about moving axles forward because they don't move backwards to begin with. :-P
It is a way of getting more tire to fit in the wheel well with out having to cut into the rear section. Believe it or not the axle will move backwards during hard twisted compresion.
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keys = Man that is a whole story


TLCA #6136
Going under the knife again !

85 4runner Marlin Ultimate 5" lift 40" MTR's Soft top and doors Towed to Moab by the Big Blue Whale, 07.5 Dodge Mega Cab Laramie 4" lift covered and chiped No more slow lane for me
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  #16  
Old 02-13-2008, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bskey View Post

Bill, how difficult is it to move the axle forward? Longer drive shaft, relocate shock hoops(?), lengthen track bar (?), move spring perches (?)... I'm not sure what that entails. If I do that, I am guessing it would be a good time to do dual cases as well due to the necessary drive shaft modifications?
Some of the things you mentioned will need to be done. Depending on how much money you want to spend decides some of the mods.
  1. install front spring hanger
  2. possibly move rear spring hanger location
  3. move steering box forward
  4. move shock hoops
  5. if more lift you can tilt the front pumpkin up a few degrees
  6. brake lines are OK but should go to SS
  7. track bar is removed
  8. move bump stops
  9. Drive shaft should be OK still
  10. If second Case then change DS
  11. Move stabilizer
  12. install cross over steering You are there anyway
  13. rebuild whole axle with Longs
  14. Gears locker hubs since you are there.
  15. install pumpkin protection
  16. ROB A BANK TO PAY FOR IT ALL!!!

Bill, anything I forgot???

Oh yeah buy a ton of grinding wheels and a new grinder DAMHIK

A plasma cutter and 220 welder would be great to or a friend you know that has one
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Quote:
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keys = Man that is a whole story


TLCA #6136
Going under the knife again !

85 4runner Marlin Ultimate 5" lift 40" MTR's Soft top and doors Towed to Moab by the Big Blue Whale, 07.5 Dodge Mega Cab Laramie 4" lift covered and chiped No more slow lane for me
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  #17  
Old 02-13-2008, 01:32 PM
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I moved my axle forward with a drill, a large bit, and that is about it. 3/4" gained, +/-. You do NOT want to have the locating pin outside (or near outside) of the clamping area of the U bolts however! Doing this, you won't.

You redrill the spring perches on the axle (one hole, IIRC the passenger side, is already almost large enough) and the Ubolt plate, and bolt everything back together.

I will admit, I underestimated the driveshaft extension and got to MacGyver a driveshaft repair on Holy Cross one afternoon...
so you do want to make sure your driveshaft has the extension for it. I found out that, when doing a serious climb, the axle moves forward about a half inch more than you think it would!
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  #18  
Old 02-13-2008, 09:08 PM
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Tom, can you recommend a vendor to price those Mickey Thompsons?
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  #19  
Old 02-13-2008, 09:31 PM
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My view on 33's is that they are coming to a classifieds section near you because you don't really want them. It's rarely a "need" decision, but more how much you love the way your truck looks and feels every time you see it in a parking lot and wheel it. The rest can be built up or hammered back .

The AT vs. MT discussion goes along the same lines. You may love the logic of the AT (supposedly long treadlife on a 35" tire for daily use), but you'll actually love driving (and seeing) the modern MT in all conditions on and offroad. Go trxus, MTR, Toyo, Cooper and don't look back.
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  #20  
Old 02-13-2008, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bskey View Post
Tom, can you recommend a vendor to price those Mickey Thompsons?
We get them from performance warehouse on Sante fe and Oxford, best price in town. They also carry the whole lot of brands.
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Originally Posted by RockRunner;
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TLCA #6136
Going under the knife again !

85 4runner Marlin Ultimate 5" lift 40" MTR's Soft top and doors Towed to Moab by the Big Blue Whale, 07.5 Dodge Mega Cab Laramie 4" lift covered and chiped No more slow lane for me
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