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  #1  
Old 03-06-2008, 05:31 PM
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Cheeseman Cheeseman is offline
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Default 35" tires and rim width

Gonna change diff gearing to 5.29's from 4.88's on my runner rebuild. I have wanted to go to a 35x12.50 tire for years and now's the time. I will probably go to a 16" rim instead of the 15" currently used.
So with that do you guys use, an 8" or a 10" rim width?

Done all my wheelin' with 33's, time to grow up a little. I have always run the interco SSR radial and will probably stick with that. Never slowed me down so far.
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Last edited by Cheeseman; 04-01-2011 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 03-06-2008, 06:28 PM
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On my HZJ75, I ran 35x12.5 mudders on 8" rims, worked fine.
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:12 PM
Bikeman Bikeman is offline
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The 8" rim might allow for more stuffage into the wheel wells depending on how much lift you have/how much flex the suspension has. The 10" wheel wil cause the tire to stick out more.
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:49 PM
leiniesred leiniesred is offline
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super tough call, cheeseman. They both work. I think I ran 8s with 35x12.50xR15s.

They tucked up into the rear fenders. I think the backspacing was 3.75. The axle was IFS rear.

BUT, the 10 inch rims I'm running now with 13.50s work OK too. The tires hit the fenders of course, but I'm sure they would on 8's too. The 10's just put the solid wheel out there a couple inches wider. My rig wheeled better with the 35 12.50s on 10s than it did on 35x12.50s on 8s.

It FEELS more stable with the 13.50 IROK's on 10s with 3 inches of backspacing than it did on 12.50 MTs on 8 inch rims with 3.75 inches of backspacing. I think backspacing is going to make a bigger difference in stability than the rim width.
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Last edited by leiniesred; 03-07-2008 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 03-07-2008, 07:21 AM
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I ran 35x12.50/15s (MT/Rs, so it was more like 34") on 8" rims for years and liked them. However, I opted for the 10" rims when I went to beadlocks. I won't go back - widened the track on the same backspacing and improved stability slightly.

You may consider a 1" body lift, that pretty much solved any clearance problems and with the larger Intercos you may need it. Now is the time, and it does a world of good for very little cost.
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Old 03-07-2008, 08:41 AM
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I think thinner is better, but I'm just web wheeling here.. as Hulk what width he's running, (6-7"?) which is at the bleeding edge of thin, and possibly borderline sketchy, though he's never had an issue with that afaik. But figure when aired down the tire protects the rim more, which is probably a good thing, that's why I'd err on the skinny side.
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Old 03-07-2008, 09:15 AM
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You would think... but that was not my experience. The rims got chewed just as much (beadlocks help there, bolts are cheap. Rings, not so much, but still replaceable). The straighter sidewalls are a bit more stable. Believe it or not, that extra 2" (with the same backspacing, that means extra 4" width per axle) doesn't look all that different from a tire perspective, but is from a stability perspective.
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Old 03-07-2008, 10:25 AM
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You know it's funny. Wheelin' all these years and this question becomes a stumbling point. I have a kit for a two inch lift and I was planning to use it someday and now is the time. But I will trim it to 1". I moved the axles forward and back respectively when I put the allpro suspension on. Oleg opened up the rear fender for me also.

So far it seems that a 10" wheel is best from what you folks say. Now to see what the checkbook says.
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Last edited by Cheeseman; 04-01-2011 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 03-07-2008, 10:33 AM
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Hmm.

On a non beadlocked rim, I like the narrower rim to hold beads better. But, I run an extremely narrow tire.

From a looks standpoint, the 8 looks WAY better than a 10, IMO.
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Old 03-07-2008, 11:43 AM
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I dunno. My desktop background at home was the Chili at Kane Creek, on 8" rims, and I would have to say it looks MUCH hotter now. As far as beads... mebbe. Dunno. Go with beadlocks, Cheese! Champions! Since you are starting from scratch. Or use Staun internals.
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