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  #11  
Old 03-07-2008, 10:09 AM
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Another thing to think about (I guess, because I have been thinking about it myself) is a decent and reliable means of fusible link for the rear mounted batteries. I armored my batt cables with irrigation pipe, but when I was working on the bare frame I did see some places where rubbing would have eventually come to a bad end .
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  #12  
Old 03-07-2008, 11:39 AM
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Oh...


Boy, you ARE a goober.

FWIW, if you really do want to go solid state, the Mobi-Arc isolater has less than .003 V drop. And yeah, I did ask if that was a typo. It is not.

You really think that 1/0 or 2/0 will have anything close to a meaningful voltage drop on charge current?
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  #13  
Old 03-07-2008, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Oh, yeah, 0.003V drop. Maybe if they use Ge tunneling diodes, but I'm not aware of them having this kind of power rating. You could use tons of regular diodes and if the current is low enough through each of them, the forward drop would be reasonably low, but you're still talking half a volt. I don't buy it, nothing is free in the real world and something like that would be very expensive.
It is passive, and it is actual. MOSFET tech, but then some. I happen to have one if you want to look at it. They sell the snot out of them for Canadian and US emergency communications trucks, power companies, etc.

http://www.perfectswitch.com/ (www.mobi-arc.com now resolves to Perfectswitch, so guess where their money is coming from...)
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ON-Resistance
50 to 100 millionths of an Ohm. This is equivalent to 2.5 to 4 inches of 4AWG welding cable.
So there. Nanner nanner. And your mother wears army boots.

BTW, I will try to paint your sliders this weekend. [thread drift...]
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  #14  
Old 03-07-2008, 01:09 PM
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I'd add some rear fenders and maybe some front flares. Yea, it wouldn't look as cool but at least you'd be able to see out the windows when running in some wet conditions. Notice the lack of mud on the 80s
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  #15  
Old 03-07-2008, 01:49 PM
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My.02

Redo the rear end to keep the tent even with the roof when collapsed. This will be huge on the highway.

Cap the top of your bed, and make side rails to hold your gear. I'd enclose them to get them out of the weather, and out of the eyesight of theives. Cut out the existing back plate and make a tail gate with either drawers, or just tubs, for your wheeling gear. Make the tail gate lockable.

This will give you full access in a hurry to both your gear and your tools, and give you a trick set up. Very little fab too.

As for the SAS, hunt ebay, craigslist, and forums for HP 80 locked diffs for the front, and wrecked 3rd gen 4runners/TRD taco's for the 8" rear.

You need at least 3" for the steering to work. Not sure how low you were trying to go. If it were me, I would also get longs. Do it once.
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  #16  
Old 03-08-2008, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Perry, the Skelator will serve nicely for your purposes. True, you don't have a roof, but a RTT mounted on the cage will serve several purposes. Not my flavor, but it definitely fits your preferences. You really do not need the cost and weight of an 80. Stay minimalist, it suits you. These old pharts will be recommending golf carts next.

When your 33s wear out, don't buy another set. Go 35s. Lower your spare to lower the CG. No worries.

For the dual batt setup, you don't need a high falutin' kit. 1/0 Welding cable (ask Dave Rios from GASES in Littleton for the Bill Morgan deal), a $12-20 solenoid & three way switch to control it (IGN, OFF, +12: amounts to Charge, Isolate, Jump), some crimp fittings and melt-liner shrink tube, two Yellowtop batts, some Unistrut (cheap!), and threaded rod. Done. A rewound alternator or GM/Delco unit would be worth it.
Kinda my thoughts with the build there Bill. The truck is used to get me out there. To get me away from normal day life. I dont need all the gadgets when I get out there, just a basic setup thats reliable.

I understand what your saying about doing the kit yourself. But I guess my thought is I just want to get it done. I'd rather not waste more time than needed to get out there. Plus I dont mind throwing a little money towards the 4runner to make sure all is good, as this is planned to gelp get some other projects of the ground.

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  #17  
Old 03-08-2008, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
My.02

Redo the rear end to keep the tent even with the roof when collapsed. This will be huge on the highway.

Cap the top of your bed, and make side rails to hold your gear. I'd enclose them to get them out of the weather, and out of the eyesight of theives. Cut out the existing back plate and make a tail gate with either drawers, or just tubs, for your wheeling gear. Make the tail gate lockable.

This will give you full access in a hurry to both your gear and your tools, and give you a trick set up. Very little fab too.

As for the SAS, hunt ebay, craigslist, and forums for HP 80 locked diffs for the front, and wrecked 3rd gen 4runners/TRD taco's for the 8" rear.

You need at least 3" for the steering to work. Not sure how low you were trying to go. If it were me, I would also get longs. Do it once.

Thats part of my thought for mounting the tent. Keep the down tubes low to keep tent low. Was thinking if we could get the tent so it's mounted half below the roof line and half above, i'd still have room to get into the bed.

I'm still thinking about the bed. Paul May and I got talking a few weekends ago about mounting ideas for the fridge. He brought up being able to lock the fridge in place when mounted in the bed. One idea that came up was to put the lock of the fridge against the back of the bed so nodby can get to it. Other than that, I have not thought much on the bed storage set up. Maybe other than the pelican cases.

I do have a front axle waiting at a friends house for when the time comes. I've decided if I can find Toyota e-lockers great, if not ARB's will do as they have been proven. I have not decided on the lift, other than using Alcans. I was planning on Longs, and maybe chromo's in front.
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-Perry Loughridge aka "Skelator" aka KDLDQ
4th gen Coloradoan.
-87 Toyota 4runner. Flat bed by Proffitts Cruisers 5.29 gears, rear locker. 33" mt/r tires. Snackster cooker. Eazi-Awn 1200 RTT and more tube work by the Homegrown Crew . And still more to come


COLORADO: my "Monument in Green"
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  #18  
Old 03-09-2008, 12:32 PM
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Idea: Keep this and all e-mail threads, take lots of pictures, keep all receipts and keep a daily log = "My inexpensive Expedition Build-up".
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  #19  
Old 03-09-2008, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
I'd add some rear fenders and maybe some front flares. Yea, it wouldn't look as cool but at least you'd be able to see out the windows when running in some wet conditions. Notice the lack of mud on the 80s
Because that's Daniel's really cool rig and he's such a smooth driver that the mud doesn't dare mess with him!
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  #20  
Old 03-09-2008, 05:45 PM
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After making the frame for the tent, the spare could go up and in the middle of the back so your departure angle is still good. The spare could be mounted on a swingout off the top of the tube mount and the bottom of the frame. Mounted at the back would give more weight at the rear axle as well to help more on the flexion. If lockable could also provide some measure of security to the rear of the bed. Nice to see you are not giving up on the Runner.
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