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Old 03-20-2008, 08:28 AM
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Default Clean Power

I'm looking at adding an auxiliary fuse block for things like my CB, Ham, and lights. I got a '77 fuse block the other night that I thought I could use, but I don't know what to do with it. I figure I can mount it somewhere inside the cab and then run power from the battery to it. There's so much I don't know though. How do I get a clean lead attached to the battery? Do I need a new battery terminal connector? Is there only one lead to the fuse block to provide power and then the individual circuits branch off of that? Or do you have to run individual leads to the fuse block from the battery? What about trying to get a clean power source for the radios to reduce engine interference? Should I use coax or some other type of shielded cable? If so, how do I run the sheath to ground?

I figure once I get the fuse block mounted then I can figure the rest of it out pretty easily, it's only fuses and wire at that point
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:58 AM
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I bet Romer will chime in here. I checked out his setup on his 80 a couple of weeks ago. very slick. I bet hewill post pics.

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Old 03-20-2008, 01:27 PM
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on the advice of m.a.d. enterprises, i have a junction block that i run the alternator wire to and then run wires off it to a block or an accessory. you get better power that way.
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Old 03-20-2008, 02:06 PM
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Pretty much same question here.

I know my HAM directions say to connect directly to the battery. I'd really prefer to run it to my fuse block under the passenger seat, rather than have multiple leads connected to the battery. Plus just another thing to have to get through the firewall.
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Old 03-20-2008, 02:48 PM
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I mounted a new auxiliary fuse box to the firewall on both my 40 and my 80. I ran a fairly thick cable directly to the positive battery terminal. On my 40, I got a new terminal for the battery that has a large stud with a wingnut. All my cables now mount directly onto this stud.

Corbet, I ran the power to my ham radio from my aux fuse box. It's always on, so the unit maintains power whether the ignition is on or not. Maybe this is the reason the manufacturer wants you to run power directly from the battery.
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:15 PM
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Power will stay clean as long as it's a dedicated circuit from the power source. You can add circuits to that feed as long as they are not inductive. Always match wire resistance to amp load. To figure amp load take the wattage of your accessories divided by 12 (volt) to get amps. There are tables all over to tell you the amp load capacity of a given lead vrs distance. I'm sure Yota or Romo will chime in with the formula for figuring that but finding a chart works for me. Also, never coil excess wire or run it by anything that would generate high frequency interference(anything with coiled wire ).
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulk View Post
Corbet, I ran the power to my ham radio from my aux fuse box. It's always on, so the unit maintains power whether the ignition is on or not. Maybe this is the reason the manufacturer wants you to run power directly from the battery.
This is taken from the instruction manual

"Route the DC power cable supplied with the transceiver directly to the vehicle’s battery terminals using the shortest path from the transceiver."

Maybe worried about voltage drop? The wiring supplied has no apparent "shielding" of any type. Adding 3' to the power supply path should not effect my voltage drop much as the larger gauge wire supplying the fuse block should make up for any addition resistance due to length.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
You can add circuits to that feed as long as they are not inductive.
Define "inductive"
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbet View Post
This is taken from the instruction manual

"Route the DC power cable supplied with the transceiver directly to the vehicle’s battery terminals using the shortest path from the transceiver."

Maybe worried about voltage drop? The wiring supplied has no apparent "shielding" of any type. Adding 3' to the power supply path should not effect my voltage drop much as the larger gauge wire supplying the fuse block should make up for any addition resistance due to length.



Define "inductive"

Anything that has a armature.
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Old 03-20-2008, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
Anything that has a armature.
So as long as the HAM radio does not share its power supply with anything with an electric motor or generator? How isolated does it need to be? We all have heater blowers and wiper motors. Will they cause interference if running? Does an Engel/ARB fridge have a motor?
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Old 03-20-2008, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbet View Post
So as long as the HAM radio does not share its power supply with anything with an electric motor or generator? How isolated does it need to be? We all have heater blowers and wiper motors. Will they cause interference if its running? Does an Engel/ARB fridge have a motor?
Your heater and wipers have their own curcuit so unless you tap into that circuit you will stay clean. My fridge, inverter and Ham share a dedicated power line but the #4 welding cable that feeds that load center is distributed from a clean junction box. Basically, diodes and shielding that prevent back feed. So to answer your question....if you run a lead back and daisy wire the fridge and Ham together on that same lead, yes, you will hear your fridge when it's running. Break that lead up in a load center and you ham power should stay clean.
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