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Old 03-31-2008, 03:18 PM
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Default ARP head studs

Going through the motor on my '93 22RE, I figgered I would go with ARP head studs.

Sheesh. $140 smackers for that little mod. Or $129 from Summit Racing. Or $39 for FelPro head bolts instead. Hmmm...

Anybody sell head studs locally? Or do I go Summit?
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Old 03-31-2008, 03:32 PM
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Going through the motor on my '93 22RE, I figgered I would go with ARP head studs.

Sheesh. $140 smackers for that little mod. Or $129 from Summit Racing. Or $39 for FelPro head bolts instead. Hmmm...

Anybody sell head studs locally? Or do I go Summit?
Summit or Jegg's. I prefer Summit as they have always met my expectations and have convinced me they appreciate my business! YRMV...
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I need an FJ40....
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Cruisers are superior
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Old 03-31-2008, 03:33 PM
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YRMV? My what may vary?
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Old 03-31-2008, 03:38 PM
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YRMV? My what may vary?

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I need an FJ40....
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Cruisers are superior
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Old 03-31-2008, 03:56 PM
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Answer to your question: Summit probably the best bet. They ship most stuff from Nevada and it's 2 days in route for ground service.

Extra stuff you already know, but I will say anyway:
Keep in mind that ARP studs do not have the necked down section that goes through the oil passage in the rocker girdle like Engnbldr's and Toyota's bolts have. With ARP you torque to 80 ft-lb and with OEM style you go to 60 ft-lbs. A set of Ted's bolts go for $25 and I ended up at about $50 for the set from Jerry.

You should call Ted and ask if his replacement studs are ready, he was trying get production of necked down studs, so a combination of ARP and OEM-style. Also you have to clearance the underside of your valve cover to clear the studs and I didn't feel like cutting the flame shield and grinding the valve cover. If you don't clearance the valve cover, it usually does not sit on the head right and leaks. Plus, the cover usually touches the studs, which makes the 22R-E sound even more like a sewing machine!

Ted recommended to me to use the bolts, less issues and guaranteed no issue with oil starvation of the exhaust rockers. I went back and forth with this and Ted's advice pushed back into the OEM camp. The only down side for me to bolts is the uniformity of torque isn't as high as with studs, but between the cover clearance and oil starvation, I simply didn't want to bother with it for a 9.0:1 compression engine. I mean, how necessary for a stockish 22R-E is that extra $100 worth of clamping force?
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:24 PM
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Given the potential issues with threads, etc. on an old block, and this sage advice on 4x4wire.com (lots of good minitruck wrenching stuff there):
Quote:
If you really want to do your head gasket for the last time? then install some ARP head studs.
it is more than the increased clamping force. But more clamping force is a good thing with an iron block and aluminum head...
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:31 PM
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But you did get me to check with Todd... stinker.

He said with ARP, there is a stud which is necked down which goes in #1 (passenger? Driver? whichever is the oil feed) position which will not cause oil starvation. Other brands do not have this, and Todd has seen starvation issues first hand.

So I learnt sumthin'!! Thanks for the caution.
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:34 PM
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Weird. All 10 of the ARP set of studs I had in hand were identical, no special #1 that I saw. I had to see first hand 'cause I really wanted to use them. So maybe we need to watch that we're getting genuine ARP and not reboxed parts... But even so, that is probably a good explanation why some people get the oil starvation and others don't, all about operator error. I mean, man you'd expect a Cruiser guy to get his #1 bolt in the wrong hole, but not a mini guy.
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:46 PM
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Interesting. Now I know what to look for. Will advise!!
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Old 03-31-2008, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
...all about operator error. I mean, man you'd expect a Cruiser guy to get his #1 bolt in the wrong hole, but not a mini guy.
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