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  #11  
Old 04-10-2008, 07:57 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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If it has good power, doesn't stink, doesn't backfire, etc. then there's a good chance it will pass emissions. If it doesn't then look into the different tricks like alcohol in the tank etc. I think you get three tries within a period of time to get it to pass so you start playing with things until they work. If you drive it regularly and it passes emissions where you are then you probably have nothing to worry about.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
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  #12  
Old 04-10-2008, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
I looked at the CO dept of Rev website and found that vehicles 25 years and older qualify for collector plates but on the emissions pages, the vehicles exempted didn't include collectors plated vehicles. Also on the emissions page, they still have 1982 as the cutoff for the 2 speed tail pipe test vs. the RM240 dyno test. Are you sure that there is a 25 year limit on emissions?
I was under the impression with the collector plates you still have to pass emissions but only every 5 years - I've never gotten to the 5 yr mark so I don't know. I do know I had to pass emissions first before even going to the DMV to get the collector plates. I know the plates/registration are good for 5 yrs (all fee paid in advance), just not sure on the emissions.

Oh, and IIRC there is still that "sticky issue" about exactly how much driving you really are supposed to be doing with collector plates.
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'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
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"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

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  #13  
Old 04-10-2008, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cbmontgo View Post
This is interesting. I do think mine will pass emissions, but what happens if it does not? Mine is an '85, so I've got a little longer before it hits the 25 mark.

All of my emissions stuff is still there; I have even replaced a few things. I'll just have to wait and see what happens.

Thanks for the input--
The trick for me back when in my '82 SR5 PU after it failed was to take it out on the highway for a nice long drive (WOT at times) to "carb it out" and get it nice and hot. Breezed the emissions test after that. Since then whenver I go in to get an older vehicle tested I do the same thing and I haven't failed again yet.
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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  #14  
Old 04-11-2008, 07:47 AM
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Once you get collector plates then you don't have to pass emissions again, unless you let the registration lapse.

And the mileage thing - I doubt very many cops know or care about that, but I think you're right technically you're not supposed to drive it very much (don't know the frequency or miles/year), but my friend and others in this club I know DD these trucks, so...
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #15  
Old 04-11-2008, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Once you get collector plates then you don't have to pass emissions again, unless you let the registration lapse.

And the mileage thing - I doubt very many cops know or care about that, but I think you're right technically you're not supposed to drive it very much (don't know the frequency or miles/year), but my friend and others in this club I know DD these trucks, so...
Edit: Collector plates are not an option for your 60 as it's not old enough. but getting it to pass emissions shouldn't be too hard either.

As mentioned, you don't have to pass emissions again after getting collector plates unless A. you let the registration lapse, or B. you sell the vehicle.

The tricks that have worked well for me are running the engine long and getting it up to temp, like Jeff mentioned. Also run the fuel tank to almost empty and add a bottle of Heet (alcohol) like Matt mentioned. Doesn't hurt to have your engine running well anyway. Good luck, hope to see another 60 in the club.
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Last edited by MDH33; 04-11-2008 at 11:08 AM.
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  #16  
Old 04-11-2008, 10:11 AM
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Thanks, everybody. I am looking forward to running with this crew!
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  #17  
Old 04-24-2008, 03:37 PM
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BreckBJ44 BreckBJ44 is offline
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Default HAC Information

Just so you guys know about the HAC, It only helps in a small window. If I remember correctly (I sold my 60 years ago) it starts out helping at around 3500 feet and is at full open at 4500 feet.

Either way, when you get here just adjust the idle mixture to run optimally here and know that you will be rich or lean depending on where you drive.

I live at 10500 feet and set my carb at around 8500 since I was driving from Denver to Breck a lot. Rich up here and a bit lean in Denver.

HTH
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  #18  
Old 04-24-2008, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BreckBJ44 View Post
Just so you guys know about the HAC, It only helps in a small window. If I remember correctly (I sold my 60 years ago) it starts out helping at around 3500 feet and is at full open at 4500 feet.

Either way, when you get here just adjust the idle mixture to run optimally here and know that you will be rich or lean depending on where you drive.

I live at 10500 feet and set my carb at around 8500 since I was driving from Denver to Breck a lot. Rich up here and a bit lean in Denver.

HTH
What exactly do I need to change/adjust if the HAC doesn't take care of it? Is there a screw that controls the idle mixture? I rebuilt the stock carb myself in 2006, but I returned everything back to the original setting and don't recall where/what that is. I just hope my rig doesn't run like crap when I get up there.

Thanks for the post though...
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  #19  
Old 04-28-2008, 03:16 PM
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There are two screws that affect idle mixture and idle speed. The most important is idle mixture. It will set where the carburetor begins with both air and fuel amounts when it begins to increase both (when you push the pedal) according to the manufacturers design.

The Idle Mixture screw is located on the engine side of the carburetor and is positioned at a 45 degree angle upwards. Turning the screw in leans and out richens. Take care not to tighten the screw in too much as it is essentially a needle valve and you can damage the tip. IIRC the stock setting is to start out at 2.5 turns out from full in (again be careful). You will need to take the AC (air cleaner) off to really get at this. You can do it by just moving the top cover, but be careful of the fan!

Run the truck to warm, then begin to open the screw. Try 1/2 to 1/4 turns first and let the carb adjust. You are looking for more revs with each revolution of the screw. Once the revs stop increasing with your turns, adjust the idle speed screw so you are back around 6-700 rmp at idle. Do this again until you don't see any more increase in rpm with adjustment. When I did it, I had to start the truck at 1.5 turns out since I was setting it for 10,000 feet above sea level.

The Idle Speed screw is located on the rearward side of the carb and points away from the engine.It is on the bottom side and you will need a long shank phillips to get at it.

Let me know if you have questions or want some help when you get out here.

Kraig
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  #20  
Old 04-29-2008, 07:45 AM
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cbmontgo cbmontgo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BreckBJ44 View Post
There are two screws that affect idle mixture and idle speed. The most important is idle mixture. It will set where the carburetor begins with both air and fuel amounts when it begins to increase both (when you push the pedal) according to the manufacturers design.

The Idle Mixture screw is located on the engine side of the carburetor and is positioned at a 45 degree angle upwards. Turning the screw in leans and out richens. Take care not to tighten the screw in too much as it is essentially a needle valve and you can damage the tip. IIRC the stock setting is to start out at 2.5 turns out from full in (again be careful). You will need to take the AC (air cleaner) off to really get at this. You can do it by just moving the top cover, but be careful of the fan!

Run the truck to warm, then begin to open the screw. Try 1/2 to 1/4 turns first and let the carb adjust. You are looking for more revs with each revolution of the screw. Once the revs stop increasing with your turns, adjust the idle speed screw so you are back around 6-700 rmp at idle. Do this again until you don't see any more increase in rpm with adjustment. When I did it, I had to start the truck at 1.5 turns out since I was setting it for 10,000 feet above sea level.

The Idle Speed screw is located on the rearward side of the carb and points away from the engine.It is on the bottom side and you will need a long shank phillips to get at it.

Let me know if you have questions or want some help when you get out here.

Kraig
Thanks, Kraig! I may take you up on that when I get to Denver.
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