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Old 04-13-2008, 02:26 PM
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Default Ih8electrical

trying to wire in a 4-5 converter for trailer wiring. electrical schematic seems to match my vehicle. everything (except one license plate light) were working fine before i started.

with vehicle off, turn on lights and check green wire to license plate lamps at a broken lead that's been twisted. after dicking with it, i get it to light up. great...attach taillight lead from converter. go to flip on left turn signal...it no longer flashes...figure i'm not getting enough juice, so i fire up the rig...still no flash.
try hazards. they no longer flash. try right turn signal, it appears to be fine. shut rig off. and turn it back on with turn signals and hazard switch both off, now my starter is sticking.

shut it off again, thinking it's a fluke, go to fire it up again...sticking again!!!!

IH8ELECTRICAL!!!!!
this should be sooooooo freaking simple! WTF!

have to go fix my new starter now.
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Old 04-13-2008, 03:26 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Ige, do you have a multimeter to use?

Do the instructions/schematic supplied with converter recommend the license plate lamp wire for connection to the tail light lead on the converter? (Shouldn't make a difference, but just checking).

When you connected the license plate green wire of the rig to the tail light lead of the converter, was there anything else connected to the converter? If not it may be that by physically dorking around with the wiring (pig harness) you may have wiggled something loose?

Grasping at straws here, post up when you have more description. I'm back to the garage to clean parts :-)
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Old 04-13-2008, 07:15 PM
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I'm not sure this will help, but I just installed a taillight power module. It's much like a standard module but it connects directly to the battery and uses that for power instead of drawing off the actual light circuits. It uses the connections to the taillights only to switch the outputs on the module on and off. It's a great, non-intrusive way to handle trailer lights. Also a great solution to dim trailer lights, since they now receive full battery voltage whenver they are supposed to come on.

It doesn't cost much more than a normal regulator. Mine was $31.69 after shipping. (Item # 221097572711 at www.onlineproductsusa.com)

With mine hooked to the trailer with the old, standard light module, the trailer lights were very dim. There was only about 8.5 V at the trailer connector. Now there is 13.7V at the connector (with the engine running). I haven't hooked up the trailer yet, but I imagine the lights will be bright.

I don't know how all those other gremlins could be connected. Maybe they're not. This type of module might help out your lighting system though.

Eric
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:04 PM
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the ex came over. i called him since he said i was smoking crack when i said it would take a day to figure out all the wiring for the trailer. "it's easy" he said. for someone who spent a lot of time in school, he spent plenty of time trying to figure out all the wiring. i tried to avoid saying "i told you so".

after about two hours of touching wires, we had it all figured out. rule number one....all the threads that say you have to have a 5-4 converter on the land cruisers are full of ..it. that was a big part of the problem. don't know if that's why the flasher was wonky. don't care. at the moment, everything is working and all the wiring is hooked up except power and ground for the controller.

i still h8wiring!
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:51 PM
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next issue. now my ammeter is way too high (as in off the gauge) when the motors being revved (like when driving). i hit blinkers or brakes, it drops down to where it should be.
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
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next issue. now my ammeter is way too high (as in off the gauge) when the motors being revved (like when driving). i hit blinkers or brakes, it drops down to where it should be.
Do you have any non-stock loads which are connected directly to the battery?

I believe pigs are wired like 40s, if a load is on the battery side of the amp meter the meter thinks the battery wants charge, when in reality it's just the load getting it's juice from the alternator backwards through the meter.

If not, the other possibility (more likely now that I re-read your symptom) is that the battery really is drawing a heavy charge because the regulator isn't regulating. Pretty easy to check, have an assistant rev the engine while you measure voltage at the battery. Much above 14.2 ish and your regulator isn't regulating. Much above 15 and that battery won't be long for this world!
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:36 PM
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wanted to test the alternator at lunch today, but had to sit through a stupid phone class all freakin day and spent lunch getting caught up with some customer orders, so i hauled butt home and tested it. at full rev, it's getting over 15.3 and at idle, 14.7. so, pulled the alternator which appears fairly new and will be getting one tomorrow.

also got the replacement ps pump in the 80, got the hi pres hose off (that fiasco involved lots of wrenches and a sawzall). tomorrow, i'll pick up a new hose, then it will be ready to bleed and hopefully it will be back up and driveable.

after moab, i may pull the pump apart and check it out, or better still, have robbie look at it to see if it's worth rebuilding. i have a kit and new bearing, so if it is, i'll rebuild it and pass it back to steve h for letting me have the one i just put in. (thanks again steve)

talked to the company that i had ordered my tie down stuff from and they are sending a duplicate order (fedex supposedly dropped if off two weeks ago, but i never got it). they've been great help with this order and all communications, so if you need anything, contact us cargo control.

hopefully this will be the last of the fiascos. i'm quickly spending cruise moab money to keep rigs going, and i'm burning out. i'm sick of rushing home from work to get a couple hours in wrenching, stressing over what has to be done before moab, stressing about what's going to go wrong.....crap, i almost wish it was over.
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:31 AM
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Do you have any non-stock loads which are connected directly to the battery?

I believe pigs are wired like 40s, if a load is on the battery side of the amp meter the meter thinks the battery wants charge, when in reality it's just the load getting it's juice from the alternator backwards through the meter.

If not, the other possibility (more likely now that I re-read your symptom) is that the battery really is drawing a heavy charge because the regulator isn't regulating. Pretty easy to check, have an assistant rev the engine while you measure voltage at the battery. Much above 14.2 ish and your regulator isn't regulating. Much above 15 and that battery won't be long for this world!
i do have the ham, brake controller and winch to the battery, but the ham hasn't been turned on in weeks, the brake controller wasn't hooked up to the battery at the time and the winch only goes to the postive on the battery when i actually need to use it, so none of it was drawing anything.

didn't know that about the ammeter, but is it still ok to run that stuff there? if not, where do you route it to?
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Old 04-16-2008, 03:05 PM
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got to looking at the alternator, and this is an external regulated alt, so it hasn't been upgraded. did some scrounging around the rig and it appears there is no regulator. so, hopefully i have solved that problem. i ordered a regulator and began working my way down the loom to find where it plugs in(i'm pretty sure i know where, because there's a capacitor thingy bolted there and two plugs, but one of the three wires doesn't match the wiring diagrams), but had to get back to work.
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearlemon View Post
got to looking at the alternator, and this is an external regulated alt, so it hasn't been upgraded. did some scrounging around the rig and it appears there is no regulator. so, hopefully i have solved that problem. i ordered a regulator and began working my way down the loom to find where it plugs in(i'm pretty sure i know where, because there's a capacitor thingy bolted there and two plugs, but one of the three wires doesn't match the wiring diagrams), but had to get back to work.
Excellent - now the only question is, what happened to the stock 76 regulator and it's wiring? Hopefully the wiring will be easy to find and identify. If not it'll have to be replaced (duh!).
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