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  #11  
Old 04-16-2008, 10:26 AM
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Rezarf Rezarf is offline
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Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
TIG-O-licious.
Wish I could lay down microscopic stack-O-dimes like that.
I saw that too, unreal, thanks for the pics Nathaniel! Gonna try to get that done tonight.
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  #12  
Old 04-16-2008, 10:51 AM
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if you made that mount, tell the class just how long it took, and how much gas was used... TIG and I have a love hate relationship
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  #13  
Old 04-16-2008, 11:13 AM
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Yeah, I drew it up. I did not operate the laser when it was cut, but I did form it on the press brake. I did not weld it. The machined items (round pieces for the quick disconnect, and the insulating washers) came with the antenna mount.

One of my welders did the welding. He is a champion welder. Took him about 30 minutes to weld four of them. A little slow for him. They should have taken him 24 minutes.
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Old 04-16-2008, 01:19 PM
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ok - the drawing got it for me... I didn't even think of origami. duh.

single pieces with tack and jig would have been a nightmare on that
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  #15  
Old 04-16-2008, 09:29 PM
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Nathaniel, you have to be one of the coolest people I know, with one of the coolest jobs!
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Rezarf <><
My rig... "Maude"
1976 FJ40 with some stuff and some leaks.

1999 UZJ 100 Series bone stock ready to rock AKA:The backup minivan

2012 Toyota Sienna Minivan, fastest Toyota in the stable.

My camping trailer build up thread.

"You 80 guys are just a Sawzall away from nirvana." -Red Chili
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  #16  
Old 04-18-2008, 07:40 AM
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So back to my pic, do I need to run that wire all the way back to the body of the cruiser or can I just ground it through the swing arm of the tire carrier? I am imagining that the swing arm wouldn't ground that well when the pivot is working well?

I have seen guys attach ground straps from the bumper to the vehicle body, do I need to mess with that?



Drew
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Rezarf <><
My rig... "Maude"
1976 FJ40 with some stuff and some leaks.

1999 UZJ 100 Series bone stock ready to rock AKA:The backup minivan

2012 Toyota Sienna Minivan, fastest Toyota in the stable.

My camping trailer build up thread.

"You 80 guys are just a Sawzall away from nirvana." -Red Chili
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  #17  
Old 04-18-2008, 08:09 AM
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It would be a good idea. Your ground is as important as the antenna itself.
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  #18  
Old 04-18-2008, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
It would be a good idea. Your ground is as important as the antenna itself.
Yup, Bill's right on. It's really best to cross hinges, bolted/painted/coated interfaces and other places where continuity will be poor with a ground strap.
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Old 04-18-2008, 08:58 AM
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Here is my CB antenna install. I did not want something under the roof line and went to Summit Radio by Ige's and got the Francis 4.5" antenna and a "folding mount."

the images kind of speak for themselves. The last one shows where in the cab the backing plate for the antenna was located. Its behind the junction block and was a major PITA to install (I really mean major). I had to lean around my cage and seat for an extended period of time to get this together. I am happy with the result but would not look forward to this install again. I still need to get the antenna tuned but plan on doing that next Saturday.
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  #20  
Old 04-18-2008, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezarf View Post
So back to my pic, do I need to run that wire all the way back to the body of the cruiser or can I just ground it through the swing arm of the tire carrier? I am imagining that the swing arm wouldn't ground that well when the pivot is working well?

I have seen guys attach ground straps from the bumper to the vehicle body, do I need to mess with that?



Drew

Drew, as Dave mentioned, anything that doesn' have a good path of signal would be canidate for a jumper or "bonding". While a small braided piece of copper wire is better than nothing, it is just slightly better than nothing. Proper bonding needs to have a thin piece of copper strap or copper clad steel braid (like in the pictures) to be most effective.

See a really good article here and select the Bonding category on the left hand side. Allan is a good friend of Bruce's, and he's wicked smart.

If you don't look at the page here are a couple of things to ponder:
1."The best mobile antenna money can buy, isn't any better than the ground plane it is mounted over. Maximizing the available ground plane is what bonding is all about."

2."Here is a money saving tip. If you don't intend to properly bond your vehicle, you can save a lot of money by buying a cheap antenna. The basis behind this is simple. If ground losses are high, it doesn't make much difference how good the antenna is, because ground losses will be the largest factor in determining efficiency. If ground losses are low, the difference in efficiency between a cheap antenna, and a good one become very apparent."

3. "One method of bonding is to use braided wire. Not just any braided wire mind you, but one which is flat and wide. RF flows at the surface rather than through the wire, and flat braid has more surface area for any given current carrying capacity. Thus it provides less resistance to RF than an equivalent round wire. It also has more capacitive reactance which increases the self resonant point. Flat braid is also much more flexible and less likely to fail due to repeated flexing."

If nothing else, take those ideas and remember them. They will help you get the most out of any mobile station setup you use, CB or HAM.

The first picture is a picture of the copper shielding tape that I laid over each of the spark plug wires in Bruce's Gasser 80 with the big HF antenna on the back. The rest are shots of the different pieces of the vehicle where I bonded with the copper clad braided strapping.
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