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Old 04-20-2008, 06:09 PM
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i can no longer count how many times i've tried adjusting the clutch and no matter what i do, the bearing will not stop riding against the pressure plate. i've put a new return spring, the rod at the slave is adjusted all the way forward, i've ziptied the springs at the fork pivot so they're tight...as soon as i adjust to get any sort of a pedal that i can reach, the bearing starts riding the pressure plate again.

what could've changed from changing a rear main seal? we did no adjustments when we pulled everything off to do the seal.
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Old 04-20-2008, 06:20 PM
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Did you by chance have a spacer between the flywheel and the crank and you left it out?
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Old 04-20-2008, 06:24 PM
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A spacer would make it worse

All I can think of is the throwout bearing is clipped on the fork incorrectly. I highly doubt that because the clips went on but easy enough to check. If you look through the inspection cover, is the bearing attached to the fork correctly? Perhaps the fork isn't seated on the pivot.

The cast forks can only go one way.
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Old 04-20-2008, 07:00 PM
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no spacers, we double checked the friction disc when we put it in to make sure that was correct. everything appears to be seated correctly.

i can get plenty of clearance, and a small amount of play at the pedal, but as soon as i drive it, it's back to no clearance/no play at the pedal again. i've done that adjustment countless times. get it to where there's plenty of room between the bearing and plate and the pedal has a touch of play...as soon as i go to back down the driveway, it starts squealing. shut it off and check and sure as ****, the bearing's up against the pressure plate again. that's how i went from the slave being all the way out to being all the way in...a little at a time.

also, i get either a minimal amount of play, or no pedal when i do adjustments. there's no halfway point. i'll check with napa tomorrow and see about getting rebuild kits for both the master and slave...don't know what else to do.
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Old 04-20-2008, 07:26 PM
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I was only guessing, I had something similar on a crusier a long time ago when I was learning about such things. I did have a part left over and had to tear it all down again and install that spacer. the spacer is a fly wheel saver. If a fly wheel is turned to much and and is too thin, the spacer is to help save the fly wheel. so I did the job again and installed the spacer and the adjustment was good, every thing worked well again. I lost my ass on that job.
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Old 04-20-2008, 08:15 PM
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pressure plate on backwards??
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Old 04-20-2008, 08:20 PM
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Is there a sleeve on the input bearing retainer? Is it getting hung up on something?
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:15 AM
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spent about 45 minutes on the phone with the wise one (texican) and even he's stumped. i'm stumped. treeroot's stumped.

this just is not normal! i need a 'pulling out my freakin' hair' icon
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:13 AM
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Well, I haven't read through all of the posts, but I had the same problem in the 60. I swapped a master cylinder and the thing always touched. What i found was my problem is that the master cylinder rod was just a touch too long making it to where there was never any slop in it. I think the master cylinder has to release all the way to let the fluid pressure drop to zero again. does your master cylinder release ALL the way? does the little rod jiggle loosle when the pedal is up? Just an idea. maybe you already looked..
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:22 AM
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I had a similar problem on a couple of vw's. Globally sourced parts resulted in variances in length at the slave.
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