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  #11  
Old 12-06-2010, 11:31 AM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
for those that don't have leaking t-cases onto their parking brakes, have you found that the e-brake actually does what it's designed to do? I've never been able to get mine working right, and I still can't figure out why. I've speedi-sleeved the drum and put a new seal in, checked its adjustment, etc. but I still get leaks and my e-brake still doesn't work.
Yes.
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  #12  
Old 12-06-2010, 11:36 AM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
That is a good question and I don't clearly recall. I believe you adjust it so that there is more of the threads in the engine compartment, i.e. by making the sleeve longer the distance the cable pulls becomes shorter. This results in the the brake shoes expanding further.

You have a good point about the drum side of things. All things being equal, you will want to rotate the drum adjuster so that it is not putting any outward pressure on the parking brake before you adjust the cable.

The idea is the get the cable as tight using the engine compartment adjustment point, then use the adjuster on the drum to fine tune as the brake shoe pads wear.

Of course, if your pads are oil soaked - step one would be to deal with that first. It will also give you the chance to see hos the adjuster on the drum works.
Hmmm. I have always first adjusted at the drum. This way the shoes have the least distance to travel. Then I adjust the cable at the firewall to where I start to engage the shoes about midway of the handle travel. My FJ45 brake will hold on a steep hill. My 71 will hold on a modest hill. The 71 had glazed shoes when I got it. I tried to replace with new, but to make a long story short, they didn't fit right so I am still using my old shoes. I dressed them up a bit when I reassembled but they need to be replaced.
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