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  #11  
Old 10-08-2008, 07:39 AM
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Jeff, I do not see anything obvious, but what I have been noticing is that the alternators have all been putting out just over 12V at the hot post. Aren't they supposed to be up in the range of 17-18V there, and then knocked down by the voltage regulator?
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  #12  
Old 10-08-2008, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Jeff, I do not see anything obvious, but what I have been noticing is that the alternators have all been putting out just over 12V at the hot post. Aren't they supposed to be up in the range of 17-18V there, and then knocked down by the voltage regulator?
No! The regulator controls the alternator output. Here....just found this that should help if your question pool is greater than your knowledge pool on the subject.
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Old 10-08-2008, 10:20 AM
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But this alternator is externally regulated...
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  #14  
Old 10-12-2008, 09:36 AM
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Well, it took me a while to find the cause of the problem. Yay for crusty wiring on FJ40's!

I went through the Haynes troubleshooting tips for the alternator and one of the connections that was supposed to read 12V read 0. So I looked a little harder at the wires and saw some more bad connections, replaced them and boom shacka lacka she runs and charges again!

I'm at the high end at high idle of 14.7V, just under the 14.8V recommended, but whew that's better than before!
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Old 10-12-2008, 06:37 PM
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But this alternator is externally regulated...
Doesn't matter! Internal and external work the same. Read the whole article!
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  #16  
Old 10-12-2008, 06:57 PM
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Congrats Matt!! It's got to be satisfying to have it figured out.
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Old 10-12-2008, 09:23 PM
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Good deal Matt - very gratifying to figure these things out!!!
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:07 PM
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Well after running it for a few days it turns out that at highway speeds I'm still at 15.4V-15.7V going down the road at 60 mph, so I'm not out of the woods yet. More diagnostics to follow.
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD

Last edited by subzali; 10-16-2008 at 08:16 AM.
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  #19  
Old 01-18-2009, 10:16 AM
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Hopefully this is the end of the story: I think I may have won.
I ended up buying a new battery, new alternator (Toyota), and new voltage regulator (Toyota). After all that I was still running high (see post above) voltage at highway speeds. The OEM voltage regulator has tabs that are soldered in place, so it's not really that easy to pull apart and bend the voltage adjusting tab, and since it was new I really thought that it should all work and wasn't too excited about tearing into it. I cross-posted a thread on MUD, and got a few answers that still may be the ultimate root of the problem (I am suspecting, kinda, faulty wiring either from the alt to the vr, or from the vr back to the alt). But to fix the problem for now, at least until it warms up outside again and I feel like taking the multimeter to the wiring system, I broke open the vr cap (bent the tabs, solder came off, etc.), and it looked like it was bent too high (from my experience dorking with this thing). So I put it on the truck and fiddled with it until I got the voltage to drop to about 14.0-14.1 at my closest approximation to highway rpm, which I feel is good enough.

So I think I'm good for a while. I hope.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2009, 12:02 PM
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I hope you have it. My voltage regulator had started reading in the low 16s and I put in a new one from Toyota yesterday. I've seen it bump up to 15.3, so I may have to also break the tabs and do the adjustment. In the hour or so I ran around after putting it in, it appears to hover in the mid-14 range.
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