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  #11  
Old 05-22-2008, 10:47 AM
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Control is the key! I ran Pritchett with an IFS set up and made it just fine. There are times when a locker will save you from breakage as you may have traction on one tire and can crawl instead of the heavy foot.

31"s are not a death sentence but you have to know your limits, you can't go over a ledge that is three feet tall, heck I really can't but .......

Spare parts are a great thing to have but before you buy look at the price of upgrades. By the time you get your spares and put them on the trail, down time , you may break even getting some of the upgrades now.

You will always need a CV as a spare, I don't know if they still make HD CV's, but if they do that would be a very nice upgrade and you would have two spares.

Another thing to keep in mind, are you planning on doing a SAS or IFS lift? If a SAS you may not want to get a locker now, won't fit in the 8" and you would have to sell it. If doing the IFS lift any upgrades you do know will only improve the lift.

It all comes down to sensibility. What can you afford to break and replace? What do you not want to break on the trail? What can you afford to upgrade now?

Wheel within your budget and enjoy the summer
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  #12  
Old 05-22-2008, 10:53 AM
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I think the point is with a locker if you're heavy on the gas then a front locker could potentially help prevent CV breakage. If you're lighter on the gas, then not so much.. just don't get into situatuations where a tire is spinning a million rpm's in mid air comes slamming down onto a rock (if locked in front this won't really happen). Also don't crank the wheels and then try to climb hard angles, or back up hard angles, or pull someone.. then don't worry about it.

IFS is fun though, if your front end goes into a dip the whole truck will tip, and the opposite back tire will raise. Uphill, the front can almost behave as one, like a boat on the lake, not a ton of flex going on. you don't have to worry about hitting the front diff on anything, just remember you've still got one in back. good times...
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  #13  
Old 05-22-2008, 10:57 AM
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I do plan on SAS'ing this truck eventually - long term. I've spent enough time driving 50 miles + a day on 35's and don't want to do it anymore.
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:11 AM
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My picture doesn't do that TC idler justice, it's got to weigh easily twice as much. Big fat tube, braced and uses a 4th mounting hole.

If you plan on doing a SAS, don't bother with a front locker. But if you follow the formula, a good IFS skid and truss, upgrade the idler and add armor, you might find it wheels just fine and is pretty dang comfortable daily. I dunno, I really like driving mine. It's no rock crawler, but I also don't dread the drive to Lake Tahoe one bit. Once I got A/C in my truck it's a pretty fair road warrior, just slow.

BTW, Nak, you do hit the front end on stuff a lot. Unlike a solid axle, the front ground clearance is not fixed and as the suspension cycles the front frame cross member dives to the rocks. That is why Bud builds a 55 lbs IFS skid plate using 3/16" material, it takes a beating. My old stock skid looks like a golf ball, all full of dents and dimples.
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  #15  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:48 AM
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If you are planning a SAS, as Dave said, don't bother with the front locker. The rear will get you MANY MANY places, and will work really well.

I know its not intuitive, but the front locker saves CVs all day long. If you are hard on the gas, you can break an axle, simple, doesn't matter what you've got.

In an open diff, when you have a wheel in the air, the wheel in the air spins. Not just spins, but spins TWICE as fast. So, any time you lift a front tire, which happens all the time during climbs on an IFS truck, that tire in the air starts to spin twice as fast as your rear tires are moving. So, when it comes down, it has to slow down, and gets quite a load transfered to it.

A locker prevents this. Both wheels turn all the time, and they spin at the normal rate of speed, identical to your rear.

Having done this for quite a few years now, and given that you plan to sas, I would recommend the following:

lock the rear, and regear at the same time. 4.88's are good for 33's. 5.29's if you plan to go bigger with the sas.

get a transfercase skid. It will give you some ground clearance, and give you peace of mind. it is also great after the SAS.

Now, I recommend no suspension lift. Get the rear springs replaced if you have butt sag, with something nice. 2" body, 2" drive train lifts from 4crawler, and get your transfercase skid to match. That will give you lots of room for tires, and give you precious belly clearance. IMO, the breakover is the biggest issue on an IFS rig. It sucks.

Leaving the front suspension geometry stock will REALLY help you keep your idler intact, and the tie rods and centerlink. For whatever reason, this stuff just doesn't like the extra angles. I would bend parts every single trip out when I had the front end jacked up. After relaxing to stock angles, I have broken 1 part in a year an a half. Lots better.

I HIGHLY, HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend transfer case gearing. Again, totally transferable with the SAS, and it makes a HUGE difference. It is night and day. I highly recommend an ultimate Marlin. Gives you essentially a 4speed transfer case, and independent high low/ 2-4 shifting, which is nice in tight turns and with a front locker. Buy Marlin, as you can't go wrong.

A belly skid is a bonus. Get a cross member from sonoran steel, and buy a budbuilt. Bud is an amazing guy, and I recommend him above all others.

Narrow 33's work really well on these trucks. They fit with no lift, and give you clearance without the weight. Its a light truck, and a heavy tire works it hard.

Sliders and bumpers are a must. You are low, and having the armor gives you the confidence you need.

I've got lots more, but probably have rambled enough for now.
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2008, 01:09 PM
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Red_Chili Red_Chili is offline
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5.29s aren't bad with 33s either, and let you move up in size later if you want. The 22RE likes to spin. You can use less throttle on the highway too. Your choice.
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  #17  
Old 05-22-2008, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
5.29s aren't bad with 33s either, and let you move up in size later if you want. The 22RE likes to spin. You can use less throttle on the highway too. Your choice.
Yup. I'm running them with 33" tires, it's not hard to live with the 5.29 gears.
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2008, 02:57 PM
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5.29's are great gears from 33's to 37's Like Bill said a little more RPM's never hurt. Do the locker in the rear and you are two steps ahead while taking one. Plus you get a little bit better gearing till you go with bigger meats.

I guess it all comes down to money, make a list of what is important to you and do those things first. Be sure to see if you can kill two birds with one stone, it will save you time and money.

IFS works, tons of people run it on very gnarly trails. You just need to pay attention more.
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  #19  
Old 05-22-2008, 05:44 PM
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Red_Chili Red_Chili is offline
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Save money by setting up your own gears, installing your own lockers, too. Not hard if you pay attention to the small stuff.
www.gearinstalls.com
I tend not to load the carrier bearings quite as much as he does but I definitely run them tighter than the FSM directs.
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  #20  
Old 05-22-2008, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Yup. I'm running them with 33" tires, it's not hard to live with the 5.29 gears.
Agreed, although I've only ran like that in a solid axle truck but that is the plan for my IFS truck that I currently own. My 80 pickup had a 22re out of an 89 4Runner and I ran 5:29's and 33x13.5.5 LTB's. It didn't bother me one bit and actually had a bit more get up and go versus stock gears with the stock tire size.
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