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  #11  
Old 11-07-2010, 07:52 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Wow, only two more years of driving on this thing before I finally get around to trying to fix it. Thought I would put a jack under the engine with a block of wood against the oil pan, unbolt the motor mount, lift the engine up and slide the motor mount and slide the new one in. Not.

Got the top bolt out easy enough, but when I tried to take out the nut on the bottom the whole bottom half started spinning. So I had to mess around to try and keep it from spinning while I got the nut off. That took a while.

After I got the old out and the new in I tried lowering the engine and it looked like the whole thing had slid backwards about 1/2". Great. I found out that my passenger side front motor mount didn't have a nut in it, so my engine has been floating effectively without front motor mounts for who knows how long Gotta buy some new hardware...but now the stud for the passenger side front motor mount wasn't lining up in the hole so the engine couldn't drop down fully onto the mounts. Got my dad and the big tamping rod out and we were able to pry on it enough to get it to seat back in. Had an extra motor mount nut that came with the replacement mounts I have, so put that on there so it wouldn't come out again. But still the driver's side front mount isn't lining up - the engine has to go forward about 1/2" and towards the passenger side a hair as well. Sigh.

I'm not really sure what to do except pull off a bunch of the accessories, borrow an engine hoist to get the engine unweighted and maneuver it around with some pry bars. Not exactly what I was planning for this "easy" job.

I tried loosening the rear motor mounts, but when I put a wrench on the driver's side mount castle nut it just spun the bolt coming up from inside the frame. And I'll probably have to pull the exhaust to be able to get a wrench in there to hold that bolt in place. Argh Besides, the castle nut that's on that rear motor mount is way below the cotter pin holes in the bolt, so I'm not even sure if it's the right setup. Guess I need to look at someone else's setup and compare.

And if anybody is wondering, this is what a broken 2F motor mount looks like:
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Matt Miller
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #12  
Old 11-07-2010, 11:31 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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BTDT my friend. And the stock exhaust routing isn't friendly to getting up in there to work on the rear one. Big A$$ed pry bars along with floor jacks and stuff are your friend in this operation.

Once you get it lined up and dropped in you will heave a big sigh of relief.

As Wes wrote, the driver's side is always the one that goes, it gets the pulling from when the motor torques.

As you have found out, they don't make the round original hockey puck style any more. The rectangular ones are supposed to be better and are still a dealer item (last time I bought them a couple years ago), but are much harder to replace than the hockey puck style, in terms of lining up the engine and getting everything to drop into place.
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  #13  
Old 11-08-2010, 06:16 AM
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MDH33 MDH33 is offline
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Matt, when mine broke, I went ahead and replaced both fronts at the same time. I just used a floor jack and jacked it way up to get clearance, then dropped them in place, then lowered the engine back onto them both and tightened everything up. The weight of the engine helps keep them from spinning.
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  #14  
Old 11-15-2010, 08:52 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Well, got some Cruiser time in this evening and got it fastened back down. I pulled off the power steering pump (without disconnecting the lines) and the front part of the air intake and that was enough to get a pry bar in there and position it into place. A little help from my dad and the use of the floor jack again and all is well in the motor mount world

Now I just have to get some more hardware for the motor mounts
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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