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  #11  
Old 06-25-2008, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
How do people afford to own cars? I guess they never make it to 200,000 miles where this service stuff comes up.
I have asked myself the same question. People will spend outrageous amounts of money on service... or in fear of doing so, will spend outrageous amounts of money on a new vehicle only to have thousands vaporize ten minutes into their first drive.

I will most likely never own a new vehicle again. Even if I can afford one. Maybe an electric, because I doubt those will be available used.

Like an Aussie acquaintance told me once:
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A man made it, a man can fix it.
Or an Ige can fix it.

You'll be fine. Pay close attention to the head and deck surfaces. Gunn can skim .005-.010 off the head without disassembly, if needed. There are quite a few tips and tricks on the web, if they don't go against the FSM procedure, they are probably good.
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  #12  
Old 06-25-2008, 11:09 AM
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Subzali ,the biggest thing people do wrong with this job is, they take both manifolds off to get the head off. You don't have to! You can pull the head and both manifolds at the same time. It is also easyer to split it on the bench. The only really special tool I use in this job is a 8 inch long 6mm allen. This is so that I can take off the intake as on unit. The allen is next to #1 injector. If you have any questions please feel free to call me. My cell is on my web site. YOU CAN DO IT!!!
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  #13  
Old 06-25-2008, 12:29 PM
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Well my truck hasn't used any coolant in the past two days...but I'm on the way anyway so I might as well go through with it.

Fuel filter replacement at the same time - OEM?
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  #14  
Old 06-25-2008, 12:42 PM
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My suggestion is talk to Dave, as he just did this http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/foru...ead.php?t=2963

but they're taking the slow way back from Rubithon, so I don't think he's around yet..
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2008, 12:53 PM
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Fuel filter replacement at the same time - OEM?
Absolutely. Extremely hard to get to... UNTIL you remove the head. OEM with a TLCA discount, I would.
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  #16  
Old 06-26-2008, 11:44 PM
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Okay, got all the wiring and fuel lines disconnected etc.

BUT I CAN'T GET TWO OF THE HEAD BOLTS OUT!!! I figured I'd better call it a night before I break something, #5 and #8 on the loosening order are WAY too tight! I afraid of rounding my 6 point impact socket or breaking my breaker bar

I might take an impact wrench to it in the morning...

Help?
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  #17  
Old 06-27-2008, 02:46 AM
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Call Jesse. He offered, take him up on it. 5 minutes on the phone and you will see why I asked him to do the engine change for me. Jesse just did a clutch for a customer of mine. He is extremely happy!
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  #18  
Old 06-27-2008, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Okay, got all the wiring and fuel lines disconnected etc.

BUT I CAN'T GET TWO OF THE HEAD BOLTS OUT!!! I figured I'd better call it a night before I break something, #5 and #8 on the loosening order are WAY too tight! I afraid of rounding my 6 point impact socket or breaking my breaker bar

I might take an impact wrench to it in the morning...

Help?
I remember that being the case on my engine, too. All of mine eventually came loose, but the exhaust side (I'd have to go look at the bolt themselves, I marked which hole each came from) was in worse shape than the intake. Lots of burned oil and crud on the threads that worked like a very effective thread lock. I had a new block, so I guess not being worried about one breaking meant none did. Murphy at work, eh? You can Helicoil the block, although that's a PITA. I would also work on the bolts with penetrating oil and heat.

BTW, YES, YES, YES replace the fuel filter if it's been more than a couple of years since the last time and you have the chance to make it easier! It's not the most impossible job to do in place, but not much fun. With the intake off it's much less likely you'll end up with stripped or rounded over the fittings and you might even keep your lower arms and knuckles intact.

FWIW, I left the head gasket in place when I did the timing original and it lasted another 45,000 miles without failing. I think it was just time for yours to go, you probably didn't do anything to directly cause this. When you get it apart you'll probably find the HG has corrosion nowhere near the timing pass through, so it just happens. Mine was starting to show signs of failing at #3 eventually.
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  #19  
Old 06-27-2008, 07:16 AM
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I have 22,000 miles on the timing chain, and actually there's a lot of green on the front of my engine so I think the water pump may be the culprit of my cooling loss (or at least a gasket failed to seal properly), but I figure since I've gone this far might as well do the head gasket. I have no idea if the fuel filter has EVER been changed.
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  #20  
Old 06-27-2008, 07:29 AM
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Green? There's your problem, you're not using Toyota Red.

How old is the water pump? Did you do a compression check? Oh, I have a cooling system pressure tester, you know one of those deals that you replace the radiator cap and pump up the cooling system. Works wonders to find leaks. Sorry I didn't check the thread sooner.
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