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  #21  
Old 06-27-2008, 07:36 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Well my engine has been on green since before we came to own it, seems pretty happy since we've put over 100,000 miles on it since we've owned it. At this point I don't see the point in switching back?

No idea how old the water pump is, (back up: here's the story: We are the third owners as far as we know. Truck was originally sold in eastern Nebraska (probably) and I think it was owned by an older gentleman. He then sold it to my grandfather (another older gentleman obviously) who gave it to me as a 16th birthday present of sorts and it had about 85,000 on it. That's why I think a lot of this stuff has never seen replacement, because I KNOW we haven't replaced it since we've owned it.) Did not do a compression check, felt that at 200,000 head gasket needed to be done anyway. I'm going to investigate into the water pump a little more, might be worth replacing anyway just for peace of mind.
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  #22  
Old 06-27-2008, 07:53 AM
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I personally use Toyota Red, but I was just poking that hornet's nest. Some people swear by it and others swear at it. I dunno, I figure Toyota specs parts in the engine based on the chemicals in their coolant, but really keeping clean, fresh fluid in the cooling system is probably far more important to the life of the HG, water pump, radiator, etc. than how much silica is or is not in the coolant.

If you do not know that the water pump is 100,000 or less old, I would replace it. They tend to weep for a while like you are seeing before they blow out. Same as Cruisers. If it's off, spin it and if there's not a lot of friction, it's definitely toast.

I'm of the same opinion, that the HG on the 22R has a similar life as the timing components. I base that on the FSM procedure for R&R the timing stuff having you pull the head. We've touched it before, either Toyota expected that you would replace the HG and timing at the same time and wrote the procedure to do that or they found that was pretty optimal during testing. I personally think the parts were designed to be R&R at the same time from the get go. The OEM timing parts are typically safe to about 125,000 miles and that happens to be 200,000 km. On an iron block/aluminum head engine designed in 1983 I'm very sure that Toyota expected the HG to wear out faster than on an iron/iron engine and so it would not surprise me at all to hear that the factory wanted the HG replaced sooner rather than later. That they go to 200,000+ is 'cause the 22R is a robust engine that isn't taxing it's internals and Toyota didn't build the cheapest possible truck by using the cheapest possible parts. The factory 22R HG is a pretty decent part.
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  #23  
Old 06-27-2008, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myredyota View Post
call Jesse. He Offered, Take Him Up On It. 5 Minutes On The Phone And You Will See Why I Asked Him To Do The Engine Change For Me. Jesse Just Did A Clutch For A Customer Of Mine. He Is Extremely Happy!
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  #24  
Old 06-27-2008, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Okay, got all the wiring and fuel lines disconnected etc.

BUT I CAN'T GET TWO OF THE HEAD BOLTS OUT!!! I figured I'd better call it a night before I break something, #5 and #8 on the loosening order are WAY too tight! I afraid of rounding my 6 point impact socket or breaking my breaker bar

I might take an impact wrench to it in the morning...

Help?
Mine was rough too. #3 and #4 cylinders, exhaust side, perchance?

The carbon builds up in the threads like none other. That is a hot zone. In fact, the Toyota OEM head has been known to develop a crack between #3 and #4, allowing coolant to weep into the exhaust but hard to find as it only happens when it is hot. Not sure the rate of occurrence, probably low, but that was enough to persuade me to switch to a Topline head with slightly more thickness in that coolant passage (also why I elected to use ARP head studs, but that is another $100 you probably don't need to spend). I am sure you don't need to do that, just mentioning why those head bolts gum up.

The few 22RE headgaskets I've seen have shown incipient breakdown around the #3 fire ring, between 3 & 4, exhaust side, also. The Chili had a failure there at 145K right after I bought it, and the block deck was corroded as a result. Change your coolant often, biggest cause besides overheating.

If they break, they break, but I doubt they will. You DO need to clear the threads either with a thread chaser (preferable to a tap, a couple thousandths smaller) or a used head bolt with a groove ground in it to clean the threads out. Of course, you will be using new head bolts. They are a single use item.

I too am a fan of Toy Red. Slightly less wear, though lots of folks run green with few issues. Also a fan of replacing the water pump around 120K or so, it won't last much longer than that and it is cheap insurance. A Toy reman is just fine.
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  #25  
Old 06-27-2008, 08:17 AM
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You might consider soldering the crimped connections in the fuel injector harness too. Just sayin'.

FWIW, doing it yourself just makes you that much more sure of what is going on in there. These motors are easy to work on. Part of the joy really.

[edit] duh, you are carbed IIRC, right? Even simpler.
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  #26  
Old 06-27-2008, 08:34 AM
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Subzai, Offer still stans. If you do break a head bolt I have lots of used ones. If you need OEM parts I will sell them to you way cheeper than you can get them from S Toyota. I use a whole sale house that deals in only OEM but for $$$$ Less. ( These parts are made for toyota and some times come in Toyota boxes) Water pump from toyota 86.59 this is not with your dicount, From me the same pump 47.98 plus tax ( dam gov. ) This is a AISIN pump the same as toyota but rite from AISIN ( skip the mid man TOYOTA )
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  #27  
Old 06-27-2008, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
In fact, the Toyota OEM head has been known to develop a crack between #3 and #4, allowing coolant to weep into the exhaust but hard to find as it only happens when it is hot. Not sure the rate of occurrence, probably low, but that was enough to persuade me to switch to a Topline head with slightly more thickness in that coolant passage
Just a point of clarification, I understood this crack to usually develop between the #4 and #3 spark plug holes. Is that not the case or can the crack develop pretty much anywhere on the exhaust side of that corner?
Quote:
The few 22RE headgaskets I've seen have shown incipient breakdown around the #3 fire ring, between 3 & 4, exhaust side, also. The Chili had a failure there at 145K right after I bought it, and the block deck was corroded as a result. Change your coolant often, biggest cause besides overheating.
Good advise, coolant with lots of combustion crud and acid and pieces of metal is gonna be much much worse than using whatever green, red, purple or blue coolant.
Quote:
If they break, they break, but I doubt they will. You DO need to clear the threads either with a thread chaser (preferable to a tap, a couple thousandths smaller) or a used head bolt with a groove ground in it to clean the threads out. Of course, you will be using new head bolts. They are a single use item.
The 3VZ head bolts are torque-to-yield, 22R are not and so I guess there is some debate as to technically whether they are single use items or not. The FSM does not show them as non-reusable since they didn't put that little black diamond one-time use item flag. But obviously if they are all nasty and corroded, then you shouldn't reuse them as they probably won't take the torque and if the threads do not rotate smoothly in their seats, the torque on the HG won't be even. Also they are not expensive, even from the dealer, about $5 at the Rising Sun price. You can get a set from Ted for like $30, even. So no reason to re-use an important part like that, but I think if you had a pile of 20 and could choose the best 10 to clean up, they'd be fine.
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Last edited by DaveInDenver; 08-26-2010 at 09:16 AM.
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  #28  
Old 06-27-2008, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
You might consider soldering the crimped connections in the fuel injector harness too. Just sayin'.

FWIW, doing it yourself just makes you that much more sure of what is going on in there. These motors are easy to work on. Part of the joy really.

[edit] duh, you are carbed IIRC, right? Even simpler.
'91 is EFI dood...

Just talked with Jesse for a few minutes - gonna try to bump up the pressure on the impact and see if I can break a head bolt
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  #29  
Old 06-27-2008, 09:44 AM
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Not all of 'em. Carb could be gotten then and even later.
Well anywho, think about soldering and sealing them crimps.
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  #30  
Old 06-27-2008, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
'91 is EFI dood...
Not always. Pretty sure you could still get a 22R in 1991, depending on configuration. I think the first year that all Toyota trucks in all 50 states were EFI was 1992. I've seen a white, regular cab, 2WD base truck with a carb still which was a 1991 (or maybe 1990, the memory isn't good). Yours is an XtraCab and SR5, so it would have come with a 22R-E automatically, though.
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