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Old 08-22-2008, 03:44 PM
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Jacket Jacket is offline
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Default FJ40 rear sill rust repair

So the Slaughterhouse trip in my FJ40 was interesting in a number of ways. Weird transmission locking issues, a cracked exhaust pipe and broken hanger, and this:



In that section of rear sill is supposed to be my latch for the tire carrier, but the weight of the tire combined with some rust issues ripped the sheet metal completely off the rig.

There's a decent amount of rust back there, and some if its hidden by paint so its hard to tell the extent of the cancer. If this were your rig, would you:

- by a new, complete rear sill, and rip the old one out. Get it installed and bolt the old latch to it
- try to repair the existing hole by welding in a new piece of reinforced sheet metal to hold the latch.
- continue to use bungy cords to (mostly) hold it in place. Body work involving the rear sill is a huge PITA.

Opinions and experiences are welcome.

Matt

PS - I have the 75-76 square plate type tire carrier on the drivers side.



Edit: Added a quick picture summary.

Rust cut away



New CCOT rear channel mounted with new OEM body mounts



New patch sheet metal welded in



Final (filler, primer, paint)

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Last edited by Jacket; 07-07-2009 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 08-22-2008, 04:51 PM
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Assuming your plans are to keep the 40 for a long time and that it is more of your fun rig and not just a wheeler, I'd completely replace it and any other cancer in the rear as it will only get worse. I guess that would be option A

Maybe also look into getting a new rear bumper w/ tire carrier to get that weight off the body all together?
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Old 08-22-2008, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
So the Slaughterhouse trip in my FJ40 was interesting in a number of ways. Weird transmission locking issues, a cracked exhaust pipe and broken hanger, and this:



In that section of rear sill is supposed to be my latch for the tire carrier, but the weight of the tire combined with some rust issues ripped the sheet metal completely off the rig.

There's a decent amount of rust back there, and some if its hidden by paint so its hard to tell the extent of the cancer. If this were your rig, would you:

- by a new, complete rear sill, and rip the old one out. Get it installed and bolt the old latch to it
- try to repair the existing hole by welding in a new piece of reinforced sheet metal to hold the latch.
- continue to use bungy cords to (mostly) hold it in place. Body work involving the rear sill is a huge PITA.

Opinions and experiences are welcome.

Matt

PS - I have the 75-76 square plate type tire carrier on the drivers side.
Door #1! I would start finding where the exent of the rust is and replace all sheet metal that has cancer! You will never stop chasing rust unless you get a head of it! That is the ONLY reason IH855's!
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Old 08-22-2008, 05:49 PM
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Matt-

I would suggest replacing the rust too for the long run. But, for the short run, I would bolt up or weld up (happy to help) a plate that would cover the hole the crossmember to the rear crossmember so you can still bolt up the latch where the hole is... I have scrap that could do it pretty easy, then at least your not quite so bungy ghetto.
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Old 08-22-2008, 05:50 PM
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FWIW, I know a guy on ebay who sells rear sills for the 40, and I have seen them up close and they are SWEET!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-82...spagenameZWDVW
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My rig... "Maude"
1976 FJ40 with some stuff and some leaks.

1999 UZJ 100 Series bone stock ready to rock AKA:The backup minivan

2012 Toyota Sienna Minivan, fastest Toyota in the stable.

My camping trailer build up thread.

"You 80 guys are just a Sawzall away from nirvana." -Red Chili
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  #6  
Old 08-22-2008, 09:38 PM
frontrange frontrange is offline
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You're missing more than the sill. There is a channel behind it that runs the length in between the quarterpanels that is rusted away.
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Old 08-22-2008, 09:50 PM
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Anybody know a good source for that channel? The only one I've found is on SOR for 79+. I need to replace most of the rear end, andwant to keep it stock to a 72.
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  #8  
Old 08-22-2008, 10:43 PM
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farnhamstj farnhamstj is offline
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Jeff Z has a great write up on rebuilding his 40 body. I made a sill out of 2" square and notched and sledge hammered to round the corners. Bolted it in place and ran it for years. $30 fix but not factory look.
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:53 AM
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Thanks for the input. I knew this 40 had rust, and I wasn't willing to put up the cash for a rust-free body. So I'm Ok with some cancer, but in this case, it's become bigger issue with my spare. And I don't want the instability and movement to start tearing/ripping/warping the other two carrier mounts on the fender.

Thanks for the link Drew - I'll take a look. I also have a gift card to CCOT from my wife, and I know they have a couple of replacement options to check in to. Man - I'm going to have lots of fun projects this winter....
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  #10  
Old 08-23-2008, 08:30 PM
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What I did:

Super cheap (less than $30 worth of 16 gauge steel, plus a 2x2 chunk of tube that Ian gave me), took a couple days, a little body filler, some rattle can and presto voila!



Link to full write-up
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