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  #21  
Old 04-06-2009, 07:20 AM
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I don't recall those lights being a problem. Not sure either way. There are two wires and I found out when either one fails that could cause the start problem. The lights mayonly be the result of one of them.

It's not that hard or expensive to replace those wires
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  #22  
Old 04-06-2009, 08:14 AM
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Jeff after I did my starter contacts last winter, I was reading a tip about making sure they are good and flat when you bolt the new ones on. If not then one side sticks up more than the other when you crank the bolts, and it's just as bad in 6 months as it was before you replaced the contacts. The thread was "replaced starter contacts and truck doesn't start 6 weeks later" or something like that...

I know you ran out of weekend, but I'd start with pulling that starter again and looking inside at the contacts. If one of them is a little cocked, that may be it.. heck grab a new set first just in case you don't like what you see. Not much help on the wiring stuff, sorry, but that's what I'd do. hth..
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  #23  
Old 04-06-2009, 09:05 AM
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An easy way to tell if its the connector on the tranny, is to have your wife try and start it and it fails. Then wiggle that connector and have her try and start it. Started everytime when we wiggled it.
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  #24  
Old 04-06-2009, 12:15 PM
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Thanks guys...

I'll try the wiggle trick Ken (assuming the truck won't start) and see what I gain from that. If that doesn't pan out then I'll pull the starter and check the contacts like Tim suggests. I tried to be careful exerting pressure to keep the contacts flat (like I did on the LX which I rebuilt before the 80) but you never know...

Anything else that can go on the starters that would require a person to just get a remanned one? The threads on MUD are all over the place from contacts being the fix to it being the NSS to people just having to pony up the $$ for a "new" starter.
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"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

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  #25  
Old 04-10-2009, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Jeff after I did my starter contacts last winter, I was reading a tip about making sure they are good and flat when you bolt the new ones on. If not then one side sticks up more than the other when you crank the bolts, and it's just as bad in 6 months as it was before you replaced the contacts.
Ding, ding, ding...Give that man a prize

I was in denial that I could fubar something so simple so I of course ignored Matt's advice and looked at the starter last - Well, the score is starter 1, Jeff 0

Starter made it about 6 months since I rebuilt it in Sept '08 and the starting issues started up again in March '09.

I knew about making sure the contacts are flat and did the same thing on the 80 that I did on the LX when I replaced the contacts...I used the handle end of my rubber mallet and put as much of my weight on it while tightening the contact bolt...I guess I've lost weight between when I did the LX and when I did the 80...Yeah right

So what do you guys think...Loosen up the bolt, get the contact flat and tighten it down or replaced the contacts and plunger again and start fresh? Not sure if any of the parts are salvageable but I think the pictures will make it obvious what the problem is - Just compare how the "new" contacts look compared to the old ones I replaced...

One good thing that came out of this is that I was able to confirm what I read on MUD about the A/T Oil Temp and Oil Level light...If they come on when you try to start the truck then most likely your Park/Neutral Position Switch or Neutral Safety Switch is good/making contact. If those lights don't come on, start there.

Pictures:

Dash lights when you first turn the key to just the "on" position:

Name:  Ignition On 1l.JPG
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Dash lights after the airbag and ABS system pass their tests...Also this is what the dash will look like when you try to start the 80 IF you have continuity issues in your NSS connector:

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Dash lights when starting the 80 if the NSS continuity is good (truck started right up - note the voltage drop):

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What my connectors look like in the 80's P/NPS or NSS (whatever you want to call it). They look new...

Name:  NSS 1l.JPG
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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  #26  
Old 04-10-2009, 10:11 PM
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Here are the pictures of the contacts and plunger...


Starter contacts: note the uneven wear on the large contact and the "spot weld" wear on the small contact

Name:  Starter Contactsl.JPG
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Size:  101.9 KB


Plunger:

Name:  Plungerl.JPG
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Size:  78.2 KB
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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  #27  
Old 04-10-2009, 11:07 PM
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You've already got the starter off... new parts are like $25? I'd go new, save these for trail spares. that spot weld is the money shot, glad you found it!
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  #28  
Old 04-11-2009, 06:33 AM
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Or just clean them up with a wire wheel or file and call it good for a long time. I usually use a wrench to hold the inner bolt head(4 sided) and tighten the out side. The real trick is once you are done with it on the bench is to not over tighten the bolt for the main power lead and twist the contact inside after you install it.
On the bench, a lite application of silicone grease on the plunger, then push down will show how much contact you have before you put the cap back on. then just wipe ever thing good with some brakeleen on a piece of paper towel or rag.
Anyhow good luck with this, later Robbie
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  #29  
Old 04-11-2009, 11:34 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions Robbie

I stopped by Burt today and $50 later had all new parts to put in...I'm good for at least 6 months I figure

I like the silicone grease trick so I'll have to try that next time, if there is one. This is one of the easier 80 series fixes but honestly, getting those contacts flush/flat with the bottom can be a PITA. I wonder what Burt or Stevinson etc. would charge labor wise to put those in with the starter off the truck. Based on the FSM they apparently should have the perfect SSTs to make short work of this. Would be worth $20 to know you won't have to worry about them not being flush. This time around I was way OCD and checked and rechecked them to make sure (hopefully) that they were flat.

Next weekend will be the 4-6 hour oil change and lube job - it never ends


Oh, if anyone needs some fairly new, but lightly used, starter contacts and plunger, let me know...You can have 'em for cheap
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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  #30  
Old 11-15-2010, 12:08 AM
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OLD THREAD REVIVAL:

Just replaced my starter contacts today. I have no idea if I got them flush to the bottom, since I read all of this AFTER getting it put back together and reinstalled.

Also, there is a shiny little ball that sits under the spring for the plunger. Does this fall out easily? I have no idea whether it's in there or not, frankly. Would it work OK without the little ball?

George's tutorial is pretty good, but I guess I didn't read it closely.
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