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Old 11-17-2008, 10:14 AM
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Default Knuckle bolt loose but in place.

I checked my steering arm/knuckle bolts torque to make sure everything is good. All are good except one, which I can keep cranking on and never stops. e.g. the bolt is spinning. I can back the nut off, no problem. I can put the nut back on and it will go back to the same spot before the whole assembly starts moving.

I carry extra bolt, cone washers, washer and nuts.

With the steering arm on I could not get vice grips in enought to get the bolt off. I am also concened that I may not be able to get the bolt out and then cant get the nut back on.

Was thinking if I tack welded the nut to the bolt I should be able to get the whole assembly out.

I have fresh bolts to put in, but would that have the same problem?

Since 3 are torqued properly and the one with the issue is tight and the bolt wont come out, I am reluctant to try something that might make it worse and then have to tear that whole axle side down again.

Is my current situation safe? Wondering is the 3 torques bolts keep the arm in place (up/dn) while all 4 bolts maintain the proper side to side mechanical interface.

Would a fresh bolt likely have this problem?

Looking for experiances to decide whether to leave it for now, do the tach weld idea and replace the bolt or figure another tear down in my future.
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Old 11-17-2008, 10:56 AM
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I would guess the hole is stripped...can't see any other reason the bolt would keep spinning....

I ran for a week with 3 bolts torqued down and 1 bolt missing. Everything felt good, but I did take it easy.
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Old 11-17-2008, 11:50 AM
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I would agree that if it is spinning once the nut is fully in place that your threads are stripped in the knuckle.

If you have enough room, put a second nut on the stud and then wrench off the top nut to remove it. I just put on new two new studs and there was room to do the "double nut" approach.

I just had two studs back out completely on the driver's side (hence the new ones ) and was wheeling OCG with at least one missing and the rest at least loose, so I don't think it's a crisis for road use right now, personally.

Anyway, back the old one off however you can do it and diagnose the problem. From there you'll have to see if the knuckle itself is wrecked. That would suck
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Old 11-17-2008, 11:57 AM
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Default ARP studs

Romer: sure, weld the nut on and crank it out. It certainly isn't "right." (even for my standards)

I'm going to guess it is the NUT or the threads on the stud, not the threads in the knuckle. That is why it goes on to a certain point, then just spins.

Good time to switch to ARP knuckle studs, eh?
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Old 11-17-2008, 12:06 PM
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What are ARP Studs? never heard of them. I have a full set of OEM studs

Thanks for the input guys
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Old 11-17-2008, 12:40 PM
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ARP studs are the shiz, and can be torqued to higher values (thus clamping the steering arm more effectively, and not loosening, both of which can lead to broken studs and a meet-G*D moment ). I would not agree that 3 of 4 is not a concern, but I am probably on the opposite end of the scale from Spanky.
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Old 11-17-2008, 03:18 PM
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Brian sells 'em.

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...5bdda2cde32d1c

So does trail-mart (sic) 220,000 PSI.
http://www.trail-gear.ca/default.cfm...#prodlineid150
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Old 11-17-2008, 08:06 PM
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Don't mess with the wheel stud's take it apart fix it right and you'll be happy tust me i know what happen's with bad stud's...
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Old 11-17-2008, 08:10 PM
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I guess I would get that stud out and see if your spare stud will fit with no slippage. I do have a few new ones also if you need new hardware. If the new stud also spins, then I guess you need to tear it apart and try and redo the threads. Fun. That's what I did 2 weeks ago!

T
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Old 11-18-2008, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leiniesred View Post
Talked to Brian about Trail-Mart's comparative testing. He told me they didn't torque the FRORF studs to spec, but they did theirs. Then they tested them, and voila! They won.

I bought Brian's.
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