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  #11  
Old 10-12-2008, 09:33 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Agreed, the leak is most likely the seal, but as UB a little RTV on the flange splines always helps. The nut itself shouldn't be holding back any oil.

Make sure the grinding is not related to something else, sometimes these things like to insert unrelated issues when you're trying to take care of another issue
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  #12  
Old 10-12-2008, 11:03 AM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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I went out and took another look this morning. I removed the drive shaft and confirmed with my nut on there is no side to side or up and down or in and out play, there is a little rotational movement which is ok and feels good.

I checked the dust cover and it did have a slight bend on the lip, but it did not look like something that would be rubbing, but I bent it back out just in case. As I did not remove the seal or any of the other parts and likely did not dislodge anything, I put the drive shaft back on.

I took it for a test drive and the noise was still faintly there. It seems to be gear related as it would change in pitch versus being constant. IIRC the noise started towards the mid range of 1st but would get quite (or be drowned out) by the upper end of 1st. No noise in 2nd or 3rd. I drove for about 5 miles at a mix of neighborhood and boulevard speeds and by the end of the drive there was no noise. I checked the pinion area of the 3rd member and there was not heat.

Unlike the front axle area where I had been in there, seen things and had them explained, I'm a learning as I go with this rear pinion. I am concerned that my noise seems to have gone away - and I can't explain why. Shoot, I don't know if I'm crushed sleeve or spacers and just noticed I couldn't spell pinion correctly in the title of my thread.

Perhaps, it would be best to have an expert go through my 3rd member and refresh/repair items needing attention. What shops/individuals would you recommend?
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  #13  
Old 10-12-2008, 01:38 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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A stock 1971 3rd member does not use a crush sleeve - pinion preload is done with shims and is checked with an inch-pound torque wrench. Sometimes you have to take it apart and put it back together several times to get the shim thickness right. When simply replacing the seal, whatever shim(s) were in there should be fine, they really only need to be re-done when you replace the bearings. The nut gets honked down really tight, way over 100 ft-pounds. The scraping sound may have been your dust shield being a little tweaked.
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