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  #11  
Old 10-14-2008, 09:22 AM
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Running lean or rich will run hot. You can make your exhaust glow either way. You need to determine the operating temperature of your engine before you tear into it. If you don't want to get into it. Grab a hold of your radiator at operating temperature. If it burns you, then you have heat. Grab the hoses going into the heater core and compare the hotness. Not so hot, you need to find out why. If I had to guess, the silly gate valve on the back of the engine is closed.
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  #12  
Old 10-14-2008, 09:52 AM
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Yeah, first I've got to figure out why my engine does not appear to be up to operating temperature. I have a laser thermometer I borrowed that should help with that. Maybe my gauge is not 100% accurate. Once I determine whether or not my engine is actually reaching operating temperature then I have to find out why my heater is blowing cold. They may be separate issues. Oy ve.
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  #13  
Old 10-14-2008, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
I'll pull the inlet duct to the heater core and check for obstructions and I'm going to replace the thermostat tonight (I happen to have a new spare a just bought as well that I just remembered). Has anyone ever had to double o-ring the top of the thermostat?
YES! I believe I posted it here a while back; I had gotten a super-duper rubber gasket to go between the top and bottom t-stat housing halves, and it prevented the top o-ring (Toyota parts jargon, it's actually a rectangular cross section) from preventing coolant from bypassing the t-stat. Added another on and presto-voila!
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  #14  
Old 10-15-2008, 07:09 AM
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I'm using the OEM gasket for the t-stat housing.

I swapped t-stats last night with the other new-in-the-box one I had, didn't really change anything. I put a 12" x 18" piece of cardboard on front of the radiator and now the engine stays in the middle range whether idleing or on the highway. I don't want to use it for long; I think I will try the double o-ring trick tonight and see if that works.

I messed with the heater valve a little bit and got coolant to flow back into the heater cores. The plunger must not have been clearing the whole way. The heater worked okay for a little while, but I know it can get much hotter than it was. I have done the muriatic acid treatment on this core about 3 or 4 times, so I think it should be nice and clear on the inside. What happens now is that it will be hot (warm) for a few seconds and then gradually cool down until it's blowing cool, even though I touch the pipes going to and from the core and they're wicked hot. The heater box also used to get pretty warm to the touch, from what I remember, and that's not really happening now either.

Also, at idle the heater blows cold, but if I rev up the engine a bit it warms up some more. I'm guessing that is related to the water pump forcing more coolant through those pipes. I'm thinking maybe I still have some air trapped in those lines somewhere that's causing problems. I have to pull the inlet duct first though and see if there's any obstructions.
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  #15  
Old 10-15-2008, 05:08 PM
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No obstructions on the heater core; clean as a whistle. So maybe I have an obstruction inside the core or somehow I'm not getting a regular flow of coolant to the core.

I went out at lunch and started putting on a second o-ring on top of the t-stat. When I put the t-stat housing back on it was spaced off the other half by about the thickness of the extra o-ring I had put on and I quickly realized that Toyota engineered this system to work in a particular way and that this is not my problem; if I were to try it I would not be able to seal the t-stat housing properly. So I quickly tucked tail and ran and am thinking about the other options.

The only thing I can really figure is that I have had two t-stats that are sticking open; only thing is it doesn't seem like they're open when I've pulled them out and looked at them.

Without cardboard, my radiator is warm but not really as hot as it should be. With cardboard I was able to get it up to normal operating temperature so that I could only touch it for a brief moment.

Here's another question though - with the laser thermometer most of my radiator was dead cold (like 50-80 degrees) while the driver's side was like 120-150 degrees, and it sloped really fast. So it's like most or all of my coolant is only going through one side of the radiator, but I would think that if that were the case I would have an overheating problem, not an overcooling problem...

A guy at work told me today too that most t-stats stick closed if they stick at all; in my experience that has not been the case but it's just another point of discussion I guess.

Sigh. How often does one come across the problem of TOO MUCH cooling with the factory system?

And how come only a couple people have responded to this thread? Are y'all laughing at me for making this too hard? Or did I finally annoy you enough so that everyone's ignoring me? Is the answer obvious but I'm just missing it? Or is it really a problem nobody really has any comment on?
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Last edited by subzali; 08-17-2009 at 09:54 AM.
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  #16  
Old 10-15-2008, 05:43 PM
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Matt, Do you have a fan clutch? Is it maybe not dis-engaging? Thermostats can be bad, even out of the box. If you run it without the thermostat does it behave any differently? You can still get replacement heater valves from SOR. I don't think they are too expensive.

You're just too cool, Matt.
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  #17  
Old 10-15-2008, 07:27 PM
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I don't care how good your cooling system is. An internal combustion engine will produce enough heat enough to warm your feet! Do you have both the front and rear heater? That would rule out a core. Your operating temperature is 100+ no matter how good it is. 100+ degrees is warm.
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2008, 07:56 PM
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So I think I was shooting myself in the foot with the cardboard. I took it out at lunch just to see what would happen (I guess following the theory that Toyota engineered it to work a certain way so I shouldn't mess with it) and I had heat all the way home and for the extra 1/2 hour or so I was driving around. The temp. gauge was still showing low, but I'm convinced my engine is fine; I think I have a bad ground or something which has caused the temp. gauge (and the fuel gauge, somehow they are connected) to work somewhat intermittently and apparently to read low in this case. I just think the system had to work out some of its own kinks to get good coolant flow and all the air bubbles out etc.

With the cardboard, the engine was probably on the high side of the temp. range, so the t-stat was probably just open the whole time and maybe that's the difference I felt in the heater last night.

Oh well, thanks Mike and Jeff for the tips on the heater, and Hatfield and Crash and Marco for showing moral support; now on to the next thing that's been bothering me
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  #19  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:53 PM
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We're waiting!
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  #20  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:56 PM
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It's in one of the other threads in tech...

And no, I don't have a fan clutch - this year didn't come with one.
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Last edited by subzali; 02-03-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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