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  #11  
Old 12-01-2008, 08:18 PM
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oh gods of the Rising Sun, can you please move this thread to tech??? thanks!!!!



OK...she is running AND is in my driveway.

Went back over today and could not figure out why it would not move. The ebrake seemed off, it was not in gear, but it would NOT move. I took a look at the ebrake on the tcase and it did not look like it had been messed with. I jacked up the rear and the rear wheels and driveshaft moved freely, so the ebrake was not the culprit. With the rear wheels jacked up, it would not move at all, so something was stopping the front wheels from moving. I jacked up the front and sure enough both front wheels were locked. I took one wheel off to see if I could figure out what was going on. TO my surprise, the rotor moved freely! Thinking I had just loosened it, I put the tire back on...and the tire was locked again. What the heck? I tried the other side, and same thing...wheel would not turn when the lug nuts were tight, but when loose or off, it turned fine. Hmm....what was Ige teaching me about disc brake vs drum brake wheels?? OH YEAH! drum brake wheels do not work on disc brakes...duh! I swap the rears (welded, no rivets) for the fronts (rivets) and it is now rolling like it should be! YAY!

Hook up the jumper cables, and still not much juice. Readjust the cables, and she fires right up. Hmm...wonder if it is just bad connections to the battery? Anyway, she fires up, and the headlights, taillights, even the ebrake and ebrake warning light work!! I start to drive (in the dark) to the gas station before I head home. A few blocks away I realize my wallet is in my 80, so I start to take side roads to get back to the school. All of the sudden the engine dies...there is enough juice to get it to kinda start, but it dies again. ARGH. Long walk back to my truck, drive back to the 40, hook up the jumper cables again....it turns over but won't catch. D'OH! Out of gas!! Drive home to get the gas tank, the wife and kids just got home. Grab the 3 year old and the gas tank and get some gas, then head back to the 40. Fill her up, jump it again, strap in the boy and OFF we go! GO back to the gas station for gas and some air for the tires. she drives great on the road, drives and shifts great. get her home with no probs. thanks to all (eepecially Jeff!) for helping get this running and to a safe place.

I still need to figure out the charging issue...

One other thing...the blower that is in front of the firewall in front of the driver's side is still blowing 10 minutes after I got home and shut the truck off. Is that normal?

Pics tomorrow!!

T
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2008, 08:21 PM
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Uh oh...here we go with a carb cooling fan discussion!

Good work Timm!
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2008, 08:31 PM
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nice troubleshooting Timm. Disc and drum got me once too on my 76
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2008, 08:42 PM
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ok, the fan stopped....and antifreeze is running down my driveway. guess we know why the radiator was empty. Can't tell in the dark, but looks like it is coming from directly underneath the radiator...
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2008, 08:45 PM
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As (I think) I wrote in a previous post, I was remiss in not measuring what was going on electrically with this rig. I know from getting my grubby hands on her and eyeballing her, there is not a visible problem with the battery cables, although there can be a hidden problem inside where the cables go into the terminals. I doubt that's the problem.

There are two easy tests you can do with a multimeter. One is to set the multimeter on volts and measure the battery voltage with the engine off. If it is around 12-12.5 volts that's normal. Then start the engine up and measure again. It should be around 13.8-14.2 volts. If it is is lower, it is likely that the charging system isn't charging. If it is, but there is a problem starting the rig, then it may be a bad battery, or even bad connections between the battery and ground and starter. I connected the battery ground myself to the frame, and it looked fine, but that doesn't mean it's good.

The other easy test is to disconnect one of the battery cables from the battery, set the multimeter on amps, then put it in series between the battery and the cable. That will tell you if there is a parasitic drain on the battery from something that's drawing current but should be switched off.

I's put my money on a bad alternator and/or regulator - easy to test for.
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Old 12-01-2008, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmbuck2 View Post
ok, the fan stopped....and antifreeze is running down my driveway. guess we know why the radiator was empty. Can't tell in the dark, but looks like it is coming from directly underneath the radiator...
It wasn't leaking there on Friday...lower hose connection maybe?

Funny story. You know I popped a heater hose coming down there Friday. When Ricardo was here yesterday we noticed his rear heater leaking :-(
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  #17  
Old 12-01-2008, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
It wasn't leaking there on Friday...lower hose connection maybe?

Funny story. You know I popped a heater hose coming down there Friday. When Ricardo was here yesterday we noticed his rear heater leaking :-(
ooh...that sucks...

yeah, thinking it might be the lower hose connection.


I don't have a multimeter...maybe I should have one...
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  #18  
Old 12-01-2008, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmbuck2 View Post
I don't have a multimeter...maybe I should have one...
I heard on the radio the other day that Harbor Freight has them on sale for under $4. Last time they were on sale I bought a case of them, gave most of them away at Rising Sun meeting raffles, keep one in the glove box of each of my rigs plus one in the roll away in the garage. They aren't super accurate, but good enough to diagnose automotive electrical issues. And at a price like that, you can run over it and not worry about it.
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  #19  
Old 12-01-2008, 09:56 PM
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Good work Timm - way to go on figuring out the wheel differences being the root cause of the rolling issue.
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmbuck2 View Post
One other thing...the blower that is in front of the firewall in front of the driver's side is still blowing 10 minutes after I got home and shut the truck off. Is that normal?
What a great story -- and the carb cooling fan actually works! Mine works on my 40 as well, once Joe Calleja showed me the secret clam shell fuse holder above the steering column.

Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Uh oh...here we go with a carb cooling fan discussion!
Yup. Are these only on late model 40s? Or all 40s?

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmbuck2 View Post
ok, the fan stopped.
Mine will run 10-15 minutes after I park the 40. Sounds like it is functioning normally.
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