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Old 12-03-2008, 08:15 AM
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Default FJ40 Engine Keeps Running

The engine of the FJ40 does not turn off right when the ignition is turned off and key removed. The engine turn off takes a long time (5 seconds or so) and sounds like a real slow diesel engine. I'm really not clear on how long I've had a run on issue, but it has become much more pronounced and consistent since yesterday afternoon.

Have any of you ever encountered this issue? What debugging process of ignition components did you follow?

My FJ40 is a 1971 with an F engine. I have a gear reduction starter from a 60 Series, generic 12v coil, points in the distributor and the ignition switch in the dash.

Often times (maybe too often) I can find a strong correlation between a problem and something I recently did, but am coming up blank on this issue. My gut tells me to focus on electrical, i.e. coil has to be getting power for spark the engine to run. At the same time, it has been a several months since I did timing, points and such.
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:29 AM
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two ideas- one is you have excess carbon buildup, which is causing your dieseling. Have you done any kind of carb cleaning/carb adjustments? The other idea is you have a timing issue. In both cases, there's still stuff in the intake that wants to burn, after you've shut off the juice, and you need to get it to where you have fewer leftovers. And you did cause this with something you recently did- you've been driving the 40 a lot.. good for you!
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:32 AM
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The coil gets power when the ignition switch is on. Sometimes these switches get worn out and cause this issue. I have the same thing going on with mine, also on mine sometimes if the engine doesn't fire right away then it will keep cranking when I am trying to start it and turn the key back to the off position.
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
two ideas- one is you have excess carbon buildup, which is causing your dieseling. Have you done any kind of carb cleaning/carb adjustments? The other idea is you have a timing issue. In both cases, there's still stuff in the intake that wants to burn, after you've shut off the juice, and you need to get it to where you have fewer leftovers. And you did cause this with something you recently did- you've been driving the 40 a lot.. good for you!
Ditto!!! My guess if I had to pick just one would be timing.
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:48 AM
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Watch the fan and see if she is running backwards when dieseling. My low compression engine is fun to watch running backwards with the key off

Electric fans without a diode inline will act like generators and keep an engine running with the key off as well.
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:52 AM
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Does your carb have a fuel cut-off solenoid on it? Might have gone south or it might be disconnected.

Edit:

Also, pull a couple of plugs after running it and see what they look like. A good indicator if your carb is out of tune will be the carbon buildup on the plugs. What octane fuel do you run in it?
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Last edited by MDH33; 12-03-2008 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:53 AM
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The Big healey used to do this too. (1963 Austin Healey with a very similiar cast iron I-6)

It was never ignition. It was always carbration.

If the engine loaded up, (extended idling would do it) it would diesel on shutdown. I would just kill it with the clutch.

I took the time to balance the dual carbs and tuned it. I ened up much leaner and the dieseling problem went away. Starting was better, driving cold was much better (no more backfiring flames out the carbs under load.)

Carb tuning tip (especially this time of year):

One thing I learned is that I had to tune it HOT. I could get it tuned to run great on the driveway, idling for 15 minutes, and it would suck on the road. (terrible bog). If I hot rodded around the neighborhood, whipped into the driveway and started tuning it right away, With the engine still HOT, I had better results. If the engine ever got loaded up, (you'll hear it) I would have to stop, drive around again to clear it out, then back onto the driveway for more hot tune. The hot engine tune was VERY different than the driveway idling tune. It still ran great on the driveway cold or hot, but it also ran great on the road if I tuned it HOT.

I have a feeling you will be able to tune your rig leaner. There will be less raw fuel condensed on the intake walls and the dieseling will go away.
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:41 AM
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Can the fuel mixture be adjusted on these carbs? I thought it was only the idle mixture that could be adjusted...
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Old 12-03-2008, 10:05 AM
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Depends on which carb he's running. Most have the high and low speed idle adjustment and also a separate fuel mixture adjustment.

What kind of carb do you have, Ricardo?
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Old 12-03-2008, 10:15 AM
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I'm pretty sure he's running an Aisian. I am too and have the problem, maybe my timing is too advanced.

On the Aisans, though, the fuel mixture screw only really has an effect at idle right? When the throttle plates open the jets control the fuel mixture right?
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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