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Old 12-06-2008, 12:38 PM
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Myredyota Myredyota is offline
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Default Wicked 4 Wheel Drive!

My truck:
IFS, manual lockout hubs but with ADD, no locker.

The trouble:
I put it in 4 wheel drive on Thursday. The street was snowy and icy. When I gave it any gas, the truck shot to the left. The front right tire was getting no power. Almost like the 4 wheel drive was not engaging. So I put it back in 2 wheel drive and drove it like a man! Today, I started the truck and put it in 4 wheel drive then lifted one front tire at a time. Both hubs were locking. Is it possible that I have water in the diff that may have been frozen? Could that have prevented the ADD to work? Or is it just a little slow? What else should I look for? All the vacuum lines look good.


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Old 12-06-2008, 01:08 PM
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Behavior is consistent for an unlocked axle. Power will always be sent to the wheel with LESS traction. That's what a standard diff does. Without lockers, you get power to one wheel on each axle in extremely slippery situations. That's better than 2WD, where you get power to a single wheel only in extremely slippery situations.

To get equal power to all 4 wheels, you'd need 4WD + 2 lockers.
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Old 12-06-2008, 01:19 PM
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Behavior is very typical for Attention Deficit Disorder! Try to narrow the command to be very specific and it's possible that drugs might be needed!
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:06 PM
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Matt,
You are absolutely correct, but this was like nothing I have ever experienced before. I know that with ADD there is a "shaft" that slides into the diff to connect the one side. Which side does that "shaft" control? If it is the passenger side, then I know it was not working because the passenger side was getting no power at all.

Kevin,
I am on them! It is not helping!
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Old 12-06-2008, 11:58 PM
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Assuming you are driving a pre-95 minitruck with ADD, the Collar is on the driver side stub shaft.

There is a collar, that, when ADD is engaged, slides over and "connects" the driver side axle to the diff.

What you are describing is the ADD side working, the other side not.

Couple of things to check:

Are you POSITIVE both hubs were locked? I am ashamed to admit it, but I've had similar situations where I locked one side, had something else on my mind completely, got back in the truck, and tried to go. It was a "DUH" moment, I turned red, fixed the issue, and went along my way.

Check the ol' CV's. Its possible that you have a broken one, especially in one of the joints themselves. Testing with a tire in the air, the axle can still sometimes turn the wheel, since there is very little resistance, but, once on the ground, and the resistance increases, it'll just spin inside the joint, and give no power to the wheel.
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Old 12-08-2008, 09:29 AM
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Add?
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:30 AM
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Automatic Disconnecting Differential.

Hey Carey, it could be.... stiff and cold grease in the hub. Been known to happen. Pull it apart and have a look-see.

What's curious however is that an unlocked hub would (should?) have the effect of being the path of least resistance. In other words, you would still have the normal one-wheel drive of a 2WD unlocked truck, it wouldn't pull to one side. The unlocked axle would spin freely.
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:11 AM
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I remember back in the IFS days, my worn out front end allowed an awful lot of toe change in 4x4. One side changed a lot more than the other. I think the left front stayed fairly straight and the worn out linkage going across to the right let the right front toe in a bunch in forward 4x4. (This also resulted in a lot of right front tire wear.)

Result: Strong left pull.

Check for worn out suspension/steering joints.
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Last edited by leiniesred; 12-08-2008 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Removed suggestion to swap to IFS
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leiniesred View Post
I remember back in the IFS days, my worn out front end allowed an awful lot of toe change in 4x4. One side changed a lot more than the other. I think the left front stayed fairly straight and the worn out linkage going across to the right let the right front toe in a bunch in forward 4x4. (This also resulted in a lot of right front tire wear.)

Result: Strong left pull.

You have simple chronic worn out IFS.
Excellent point, Mine did that too when it was worn out.

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Originally Posted by leiniesred
Time to cut it all off and go solid axle. It'll be cheaper than replacing all of your ball joints, a-arm bushings, idler arms, and tie rod ends.
Errr???? I replaced all of that stuff on mine. Cost 500 bucks.

You can't even get long fields for that much.
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:38 AM
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You *can* get the axle under there and operational for a little more than that*. Longfields are a luxury for some.










*caveat: it wouldn't be my ideal system (rear springs up front, no Longs, no locker, no gears, cheapest high steer you can find...). But you do have to weigh putting money toward IFS when it could go directly to a SAS.
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