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  #11  
Old 02-23-2009, 12:41 PM
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The alternate question is how many problems on Rubithon were seen with e-lockers?

It's a matter of where you want to spend your $$$, mostly. If you are getting a loan, e-lockers will be included in your loan. If you buy an 80 with say Slee sliders already installed, and maybe bumpers, etc., those will be included in your loan given what built 80's are selling for.

What I would care about most, personally, is baseline maintenance. With the 80 series head gasket issues, having the headgasket replaced, relatively recent front and rear axle service, and other PM can save you at least half the cost of the rig. A $4K non-locked and non-maintained 80 is a $12-15K project in total to build, but the rest of the money will come out of your pocket unless you can do this type of work.

But a fully baselined and modified 80 can be had easily for $8K with reasonable miles (low 100K's). Somebody else's work is the very high value on the market. I bought my 80 3.5 years ago and the previous owner had the headgasket replaced, front and rear axles serviced, and sliders and a OME kit installed, all by Slee. This was worth $5K on what was at the time a $13.8K purchase (105K miles at the time), and it was done by an extremely reputable local shop that specializes in 80's.

So you can do ARB's when you do gears, get the right base rig, and get mods if you can because you'll pay pennies on the dollar in this market if you intend to build it.
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2009, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Nay View Post
The alternate question is how many problems on Rubithon were seen with e-lockers?
None that I'm aware, but I'm not disputing that factory lockers are reliable, too. People are saying that they somehow have their trips ruined by guys fiddling with their ARBs and I'm just offering a pretty difficult trip that I hope wasn't negatively impacted by us messing with our Air Lockers.
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2009, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by FJBen View Post
The ARB case is stronger as it's made of 300m, although the OEM lockers are not weak.

The problem with Factory lockers is that #1 if you wheel hard with 35's, you could twist a spline on the axle and then you are going to have to cut into the axle /3rd member area to get that axle out. If it's twists, you are are screwed and in for a huge PITA fix. Also if the actuators goes bad, they are like $500~$600 to replace that part.

ARB's are perfectly fine to use. If you twist and axle, no worries, it doesn't stay locked or cause issues. THe O-ring issue has been solved with the new stye so the leaking isn't really an issue. If it is, It's really not hard at all to replace. Especially the rear, you can have the 3rd out in less than 30 mins and it takes all of 4 minutes to replace the o-rings if they are bad. It's like $10 in parts not counting oil.

The only ARB failure I've had was due to the carrier bolts backing loose and allowing the locker to move and pinch the oring. tightend, new o-rings and good as new.

I would personally look at trying to find the cleanest, lowest mileage best recorded 80 that you can find lockers or no. Although I always tend to search out the locked one's first.


And the difference in splines twisting between the different kind of lockers is? Personally, I trust factory Toyota lockers over pressurized air actuated lockers! If an axle does twist bad with factory lockers it can be a real bear to repair. On that same note, if the splines are starting to twist, personally I would rather my locker would stick, alerting me that a problem is happening prior to snapped axle and diff full of shrapnel! It all falls back to the same thing....if you maintain your junk at home you'll spend less time dinking with it on the trail!
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  #14  
Old 02-23-2009, 02:12 PM
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In the end, buy whatever you want.

Factory lockers are good, ARB's are good.

ARB's CAN have airline issues. This can be easily solved with SS lines. Oil and internal air leaks are rare on a properly set up diff.

My rear ARB had a set up issue. The locker never did. It's getting reset up, but in the end, neither my front, nor my rear has ever had an issue on the trail.

Factory lockers have issues too. Two guys I know have had on trail failures in their taco's with the locker either popping out, involving a motor removal, or the locker shorting out underwater.

IMO, buying an 80 with the factory lockers is a MUCH better choice than buying ARB's to put in. Its all factory, and, its a good way to go.
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  #15  
Old 02-23-2009, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
ARB's CAN have airline issues. This can be easily solved with SS lines.
Just to complete this thought, if you have an Air Locker you NEED to having these rolling around in your spares box. Naturally assuming proper setup and regular maintenance, but these little $10 fittings solve the most common on-trail issues.

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  #16  
Old 02-23-2009, 05:26 PM
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Thanks for the very energetic commentary! In reading your posts I've learned quite a bit. Not sure how this might play out in a purchase except to say I'm looking for:
Clean rig, low miles, lockers, as few POs as possible, price, location. If I find a rig that has most of these I may overlook the missing factory lockers since ARB seems to be well thought of.

THanks, LETSROLL
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  #17  
Old 02-23-2009, 09:43 PM
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You want a big built one? you could have this one for $8K.. http://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-tra...ed-locked.html
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  #18  
Old 02-23-2009, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nakman View Post
You want a big built one? you could have this one for $8K.. http://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-tra...ed-locked.html
First line of description: Slee Double Cardigans? Uh oh, red flag. I thought they only came in factory solid black. Can you get them with the Union Jack, ala Mini Cooper roofs, too?
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:36 PM
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First line of description: Slee Double Cardigans? Uh oh, red flag. I thought they only came in factory solid black. Can you get them with the Union Jack, ala Mini Cooper roofs, too?
whachutalkinabout, cardigans?
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  #20  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
IMO, buying an 80 with the factory lockers is a MUCH better choice than buying ARB's to put in. Its all factory, and, its a good way to go.
I agree, but not because I think factory lockers are better than ARBs (although I personally prefer the Toyota lockers).

Most of the time, it won't cost any more to buy an 80 with front+rear lockers than an 80 without them. You might as well spend a little more time looking at 80s until you find the one that is well maintained WITH lockers.

Then you can spend your money buying sliders, bumpers, lift, tires, gears, skid plates, ham and CB radios, Nakman interior accessories, Slee double cardigan sweaters, etc.

There are plenty of things to spend your money on after the purchase. Why waste money installing lockers when you can usually get them included for the same price?

Mr. Slee will show you what to look for:




Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
You want a big built one? you could have this one for $8K.. http://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-tra...ed-locked.html
That's a mighty fine rig for $8K. I shudder to think how much money I have in my 80.
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