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  #11  
Old 04-13-2009, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Even a full overhaul on a 22RE ain't that expensive...
So true. If the block and head themselves are not trashed, a well enough done 22R rebuild can easily end up around $1K and give you another decade of service without drama. Even my new engine just tickled $2500 in parts (not including tools and a few sensors and stuff that was by and large optional) with a brand new, factory sealed short block, completely new Engnbldr head. I could have saved around $600 by having Gunn do the block and another $150 by having my old head machined for O/S valve and ported rather than the same with a new castings. If the price is right on the truck, I would assume with another $1500~$2K and a few weekends that you can give it a strong, new heart.
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  #12  
Old 04-13-2009, 07:30 PM
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Doing it the right way will also require a headgasket.
No manifold gaskets?

Joe Calleja says he has a way of doing the timing chain without pulling the head. He described to me over the phone. I nodded my head while my eyes glazed over and went for the standard way, his way sound like a time saver but only if you REALLY know what you're doing.

X2 on the OEM guide and tensioner, most of the aftermarket crap is 20k mile or less.
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  #13  
Old 04-13-2009, 08:11 PM
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peeked at it again tonight on the way home. Didn't knock on the owners door. Its got a repaint and spray in bedliner. Sunroof that is cracked. Dash is cracked. Birfs leaking bad. But buckets with seat covers? AC, power windows. Manual trans. Carpet is clean, inside is pretty good shape overall. I need to spend some time with a magnet on the body and pop the hood.

Tell me what else to look for and the best way to get a handle on the timing chain deal. I don't really want more than $500 ish in recon.

I have a compression tester and leak down tester in my tool box. Figure I will start there...
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  #14  
Old 04-13-2009, 09:53 PM
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No manifold gaskets?
If you pull the head, then yes, intake and exhaust.
Quote:
Joe Calleja says he has a way of doing the timing chain without pulling the head. He described to me over the phone. I nodded my head while my eyes glazed over and went for the standard way, his way sound like a time saver but only if you REALLY know what you're doing.
I did it the first time leaving the head in place and that way does work if you are careful when you remove the timing cover (it's easy to tear the front section of the HG). I believe that dropping the pan is pretty much still necessary, more so unless you can account for all the pieces. Seeing the condition of my HG at 200K, I think thought that replacing it is the safest option if you're taking the time to do it right. But, yeah, there's no 100% answer here.
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  #15  
Old 04-13-2009, 10:43 PM
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I'm comfortable pulling the head and pan. More to just see the overall condition of the engine as well. Nothing I hate more than to replace just a few things and button it up to find out I need to tear it all back down again.
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  #16  
Old 04-14-2009, 09:44 AM
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FYI.........Don't go for the cheating way, do it the right way. And it maybe worth a call to Jesse at ATLR to get a price, he does great work and great prices.....303-487-6195 Office, 720-201-2214 cell...
You can also get a 22RE installed for $2,500.00
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  #17  
Old 04-14-2009, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Seeing the condition of my HG at 200K, I think thought that replacing it is the safest option if you're taking the time to do it right. But, yeah, there's no 100% answer here.
Yeah, you *can* change the timing chain without removing the head, but with the chain and head gasket demonstrating a similar service life (unless all POs have been religious about coolant changes) why would you want to risk it?

There is a fair amount of movement between the block and head on a regular basis. Something's gotta give.

The cheater method was all the rage on minitruck boards for a while but I won't do it - after seeing my block deck corroded when I first got the Chili at 147K miles, which could have been prevented if the HG had been changed at the correct service interval.
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  #18  
Old 04-14-2009, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Yeah, you *can* change the timing chain without removing the head, but with the chain and head gasket demonstrating a similar service life (unless all POs have been religious about coolant changes) why would you want to risk it?

There is a fair amount of movement between the block and head on a regular basis. Something's gotta give.

The cheater method was all the rage on minitruck boards for a while but I won't do it - after seeing my block deck corroded when I first got the Chili at 147K miles, which could have been prevented if the HG had been changed at the correct service interval.
OK, I'll do the HG, guides, and chain if I pick it up.

What I really need to know is what to look for during they buying process specific to that engine. Rest of the truck I can handle. Assuming the chain is not broken is it ok to let her idle with broken guides? Like to listen to valves, test ac etc...
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  #19  
Old 04-14-2009, 02:11 PM
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OK, I'll do the HG, guides, and chain if I pick it up.

What I really need to know is what to look for during they buying process specific to that engine. Rest of the truck I can handle. Assuming the chain is not broken is it ok to let her idle with broken guides? Like to listen to valves, test ac etc...
If the guides are broken enough to rub the timing cover, then you are on a very limit time budget. So I would probably avoid running it more than necessary, steel chain on cast aluminum is a pretty quick resolution to who has higher hardness...

Thing is with the chain rubbing it will sound like diesel, so you're not going to get a whole lot from the sound department.

I would personally just pull the valve cover and look at the valvetrain for scoring on the cam and followers (gotta love overhead cam here!). A good wear pattern will be nice and evenly bright across the whole cam lobe. Do a compression check and look for around 115 or 120 psi up there and +/- 10% high to low. That's about all you can do besides oil pressure while it's running and the oil pressure gauge on this truck (if it even has one) is basically a go/no-go kinda thing. My gauge is definitely not linear across its sweep, at 1/2 it's something like 45 psi and at 1/3 it's like 10 psi.

Look for weeping around the water pump and leaking oil around the half moons at each end of the valve cover and the front main on the front of the oil pump (you'll see oil on the lower crank pulley). Try to inspect around the timing cover as much as possible for leaks (would be coolant most likely) and under the intake. There are coolant passages under there that like to leak. That will tell you the general condition of the engine. For example if the half moons are not leaking it means someone is at least taking enough care to adjust valves once in a while and re-seal those. If they are leaking they are probably really old and have shrunk and hardened.
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  #20  
Old 04-14-2009, 08:45 PM
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thanks this is what I needed to know.

I have an oil pressure testing kit too. Do you know what the spec pressure range is?
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